Acne Studios FALL 2019 MENSWEAR

When it comes to his part in the fashion playground, Jonny Johansson said this afternoon that he always feels like a double outsider: “Because we’re from Stockholm, which is from way outside [the fashion world], plus I’m from the very north of Sweden, which is way outside even Stockholm.” For this Acne Studios collection, Johansson harnessed the advantage that provenance from the periphery affords: fresh perspective.

Here, he worked to mash together many disparate elements into a newly coalesced menswear proposition. Farming has been a pretty rare reference at the shows, but it was present today in tractor-soled, half-length rubber work boots reimagined in leather; a flecked pale work jacket with a strapped satin utility pouch; and cow-print trenchcoats. He touched on late-mid-century bohemia and counterculture in the psychedelic swirl vests; superlong snoods with even longer fringing; and the colored snake-effect trenches, shirt-jackets, and moto pants. Shirts worn above high-waisted leather pants with carpenter’s pockets were semi-sheer and patterned with distressed chevrons in Lurex that Johansson had drawn from vintage soccer jerseys; these sometimes resembled Arsenal’s immortal “bruised banana” stripe of the 1990s.

There was stretch suiting in textured jersey, some nice long coats in soft velvet in hard colors (the pale, pale pistachio looked especially strong), fitted pants and tightly darted shorts in top-to-toe finely lined brown with lavender topstitching, and super-oversize work shirting. Pants featured vibrantly lined pockets that could be worn open on the hip, as they were in this show, but were also built to function when fastened at one side by hook and eye to the waistband. Accessories included rugged fanny packs and necklaces hanging with hollowed silver globes, partially sliced, whose insides were colored to complement the garments they were worn with. Whatever he says, Johansson these days is as inside as it gets in fashion; that outsider eye, however, remains.

Source: Luke Leitch/VogueRunway

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Alexander McQueen Fall 2017 Menswear

Alexander McQueen Fall 2017 Menswear

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Vivienne Westwood Fall 2017 Menswear

 If this collection is seemingly schizophrenic it's because it's by Vivienne Westwood in all her glory. Vivienne Westwood always takes social, political and/or cultural matters and reinterprets it... She's brilliant and one of my longtime faves. take apart this collection and there are some exquisite pieces to take home.  

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Malan Breton London Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2017

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Malan Breton showcased Spring/Summer 2017 men's and women's ready-to-wear collections on September 18th at the Freemason's hall during London Fashion Week. This season, the designer is inspired by the myth of Psyche, and the fables of the butterfly - the butterfly plays a significant part in Taiwanese indigenous culture. The collections represent a new romantic element that is enhanced by beadwork, printed silk organzas, and fusings of denim, silk, and other fibers that exude innovation and deliverance, and use his synonymous west meets east inspiration. Malan Breton incorporates these principals while maintaining highly wearable pieces that contain influences from sportswear to couture, delivering a dynamic performance and overall vision for Spring/Summer 2017. The collection features a shoe collaboration with Michela Rigucci for women, and a new collection of Malan Breton luxury leather handbags and luggage. Buyers and retail representative guests of the show will have the opportunity to purchase the collection right off the catwalk using the Markable Application.

This season, Malan goes back to his bespoke menswear roots at a famous British Heritage line to create options for women, keeping with his strong concept of incorporating Taiwanese fabrication, and indigenous techniques.

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Christopher Kane Spring 2017

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Runway: Christopher Kane Spring 2017 London Fashion Week.

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