Vivienne Westwood LFW AW 20/21

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Vivienne Westwood began designing in 1971 along with her then partner Malcolm McLaren in London. At the time they used their shop at 430 Kings Road, London, to showcase their ideas and designs. With their changing ideas of fashion came the change of not only the name of the shop but also the décor. It was in 1976 when Westwood and McLaren defined the street culture of Punk with Seditionaries. 

By the end of the seventies Vivienne Westwood was already considered a symbol of the British avant-garde and for Autumn/Winter 1981 she showed her first catwalk presentation at Olympia in London. Westwood then turned to traditional Savile Row tailoring techniques, using British fabrics and 17th and 18th century art for inspiration. 

1989 was the year that Vivienne met Andreas Kronthaler, who would later become her husband and long-time design partner, as well as Creative Director of the brand. In 2004 the Victoria & Albert museum, London, hosted a Vivienne Westwood retrospective exhibition to celebrate her then 34 years in fashion – the largest exhibition ever devoted to a living British fashion designer. In 2006, her contribution to British Fashion was officially recognized when she was appointed Dame of the British Empire by Her Majesty, Queen Elizabeth II, and in 2007 was awarded the ‘Outstanding Achievement in Fashion’ at the British Fashion Awards in London. 

Vivienne Westwood is one of the last independent global fashion companies in the world. At times thought provoking, this brand is about more than producing clothes and accessories. Westwood continues to capture the imagination, and raise awareness of environmental and human rights issues. With a design record spanning over forty years, Vivienne Westwood is now recognized as a global brand and Westwood herself as one of the most influential fashion designers, and activists, in the world today. 

FASHIONADO

The 101: Vivienne Westwood

Everything you need to know about the ultra-influential punk designer.

The 101 is an ongoing series that provides a concise and informative breakdown of subjects that range from fashion brands to furniture.Of the fashion industry’s many dissidents few have proven as inflexible as the original punk, Vivienne Westwood. Dame Westwood’s contributions to fashion are so vast that several books have been assembled to properly assess her legacy.

However, it’s worth starting with one key point in her history: her provocative store co-founded with Sex Pistols manager and future husband Malcolm McLaren in the mid ‘70s. SEX — eventually renamed Seditionaires, then World’s End — was where Westwood first distributed her intentionally-shoddy handmade garments, ranging from graphic tees emblazoned with breasts, swastikas and religious symbols (since referenced by countless devotees) to bondage trousers (also frequently referenced).

Westwood and McLaren, 1977

The influence of Westwood’s punk-era designs ran in stark contrast to the fashion industry, but their influence still reverberated throughout. For instance, Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo made their controversial Parisian debuts shortly after shopping at SEX, at least partially inspired by Westwood’s disintegrating knitwear and anti-establishment ethos. Indeed, Westwood’s Fall/Winter 1994 range showcased comically exaggerated anatomies merely three years before Kawakubo’s iconic Spring/Summer 1997 show, referred to by fans as the “Lumps and Bumps” collection.

Westwood’s same uprooting attitude fueled the subversive Ura-Hara movement, including the designs of Hiroshi Fujiwara and Jun Takahashi. years later, Westwood’s widespread influence was reaffirmed when even Dolce & Gabbana admitted to transparent imitation.

In an industry packed with legacy-hungry designers, few can claim more innovation than Westwood. Her legendary 1981 Pirates runway show predated Jean Paul Gaultier’s nautical dabbling later that decade, while her strappy, upcycled bondage trousers informed creations from the likes of Christopher Nemeth, Helmut Lang and Maison Margiela. Other inimitable creations include Westwood’s armor rings and signature rocking horse shoes — Westwood and McLaren also supported George Cox’s trademark creepers, which have since become a symbol of punk rebellion.

The visual language of punk isn’t Westwood’s alone to claim, but her skill in translating the movement’s attitude to wearables remains a lasting point of strength — what other living designer can say they effectively outfitted a musical revolution? Westwood’s take-no-prisoners attitude has never wavered, and the designer remains an activist and figure of change. Throughout the years, she’s donated to and promoted the UK’s environmentally-focused Green Party, launched Climate Revolution, publicly mocked Margaret Thatcher and and invited activists to perform during a runway show, to name a few notable acts. Westwood puts her money where her mouth is, catering to her deeply-held credo over fashion’s fickle tastes.

Though Westwood’s design acumen is far from negligible, her rebellious, headline-making designs are perhaps her best-known and most forward-looking. Prior to Westwood, designers like Pierre Cardin and Gaultier stirred up plenty controversy within the fashion system, but Westwood constantly battled conventionality and trends from the outside-in. Consider Westwood’s iconic mini-crini dress, revealed in Spring/Summer 1985 as a progressive revision of the stodgy crinoline dress, a symbol of 19th-century conservatism.

Similarly, her forward-thinking usage of tartan and Harris Tweed elevated Scotland’s traditional patterns and textiles from intentionally-unfashionable heritage into striking dresses for Fall/Winter 1987’s “Harris Tweed” collection. Or, examine her aggressive dissection of traditional fabrics for Spring/Summer 1991’s “Cut and Slash.” There, she reimagined violently-slashed fabrics of the 16th and 17th centuries in sleek satin rugged denim, predating the contemporary taste for distressed jeans.

When Pharrell wore a re-edition of Westwood’s enormous Buffalo hat, worn to the 2014 Grammys, was a dual moment of clarity. It both cemented his role as style-conscious statement-maker and affirmed Westwood’s ongoing relevance in the industry. Today, Westwood’s Harris Tweed-inspired Orb logo is nearly as recognizable as its forebear, with a new generation uncovering the British creative’s uncanny foresight and uncompromising garments. Recent collaborations with Vans skate shoes and ASICS runners have brought Westwood’s inimitable style to more approachable silhouettes, much like Westwood’s Anglomania x Lee partnerships did several years prior.

Westwood driving a tank to protest fracking

In recent years, household names have paid tribute to the world’s foremost British designer. Notably, Riccardo Tisci brought Westwood on board for a Burberry collaboration, upending traditional British staples with Westwood’s dramatic silhouettes. Ironically, with Westwood always a step ahead of the fashion industry, collectors are now looking backwards, with the Seditionaries and Anglomania designer finding new life on the secondhand market. Newfound interest from archivists has inspired the Westwood brand to reissue Orb jewelry and continue dabbling in doodled graphics — don’t be surprised when Dame Viv inevitably collaborates with a major streetwear brand, à la Gaultier x Supreme.

Andreas Kronthaler, who Westwood married in 1993, has aided the designer in bringing her namesake label into brave new frontiers since he began aiding her creative process in the ’90s; since 2016, his name has led her runway shows as a sign of his importance to the enduring Vivienne Westwood brand. However, Westwood’s legacy is hers alone, due to years of unwavering activism that cap her decades of boundary-pushing design. Climate concerns, struggles for equality and discordant fashion design all remain hot topics in the current fashion cycle, trails long-since blazed by Westwood, a patron saint for all conscious, idiosyncratic designers.

Source: Hypebeast

FASHIONADO

Burberry Releases SS19 Runway Zip-Up Shirt

Burberry has released one of its most iconic Spring/Summer 2019 runway pieces, the “WHY DID THEY KILL BAMBI?” deer-print shirt.

The Riccardo Tisci-designed piece is steeped in history and references. The printed phrase takes after more than just one pool of inspiration, as it looks to the lyrics of the Sex Pistols’ 1979 song “Who Killed Bambi?” — which was incidentally co-written by Vivienne Westwood, who soon went on to collaborate with Tisci at Burberry — as well as Tisci’s time as the head of Givenchy, which delivered a number of iconic Bambi-adorned pieces. The print also nods to the fact that Burberry said it would no longer use fur in its future collections.

Burberry’s short-sleeve offering is made from cotton twill and features a half-zip down the front using leather hardware. The boxy fit is complemented by two box-shaped chest pockets, and on the rear, Burberry has added two pictures of a porcelain deer.

Take a closer look at this SS19 runway piece from Burberry in the gallery above, and pick it up for yourself from retailers such as MATCHESFASHION.COM for $903 USD.

Source: HypeBeast

FASHIONADO

Celebrating sustainable style with Red Carpet Green Dress

Angela Bassett

Red Carpet Green Dress

Suzy Amis Cameron, James Cameron

Red Carpet Green Dress

Amanda Hearst

Red Carpet Green Dress

Rosario Dawson

Red Carpet Green Dress

Paris Hilton

Red Carpet Green Dress

Maye Musk, Madelaine Petsch, Angela Bassett, Amanda Hearst, Rosario Dawson

Red Carpet Green Dress

Amanda Hearst, Chris Hardwick, Lydia Hearst

Red Carpet Green Dress

Priyanka Bose, Madelaine Petsch, Travis MIlls

Red Carpet Green Dress

Suzy Amis Cameron, founder of the ethical fashion initiative Red Carpet Green Dress (RCGD), was honored by MAISON-DE-MODE.COM at the first annual gala at the “Celebrate Sustainable Style” event held at The Sunset Tower. Many celebrities and industry executives came out to support Amis Cameron including her husband director James Cameron, Amanda Hearst, Hassan Pierre, Elon Musk, Maye Musk, Paris Hilton & Chris Zylka, Angela Bassett, Nadja Swarovski, Rosario Dawson, Jaime King, Zac Posen, Lydia Hearst & Chris Hardwick, Madelaine Petsch, Nathan Jendens, Ginta Lapina, Kathy Hilton, Rick Hilton, Anne Hearst McInerney, Priyanka Bose, and many more.
 
During the two hour event, one-of-a-kind sustainable gowns were created by top designers Vivienne Westwood, Mary Katrantzou & Diane von Furstenberg, and were worn by critically acclaimed actresses Rosario Dawson, Angela Bassett and Madelaine Petsch. The ethical dresses are now available for purchase on MAISON-DE-MODE.COM, where a percentage of profits will be donated to the beneficiary of RCGD, MUSE School CA. MUSE School CA is an environmental non-profit educational organization Amis Cameron founded in Calabasas, Calif. with her sister Rebecca Amis.

Descriptions of each gown worn:

• Madelaine Petsch is wearing a custom Mary Katrantzou dress made with sustainable silk satin and embroidered with Swarovski upcycled crystals 
• Angela Bassett is wearing a custom Diane von Furstenberg iconic wrap dress made of upcycled fabric
• Rosario Dawson is wearing a Vivienne Westwood Couture draped corset gown, in a deep emerald green silk crepe marocain, layered with smoky black tulle petticoat. This special silk was carefully selected from Westwood’s fabric archives, in the name of reducing waste and reviving unused fabrics in stunning couture style.
• Amanda Hearst wearing a Gabriela Hearst gown made with upcycled Swarovski crystals
• Maye Musk is wearing an EDUN look, which exemplifies their Made in Africa message and ethical production standards. 

Red Carpet Green Dress is an internationally recognized organization that combines the worlds of fashion and sustainability. Currently in its ninth year, the campaign was conceived by Suzy Amis Cameron during the press tour for her husband, James Cameron's film “Avatar”. Her hope is to draw attention to the importance of more sustainable practices in fashion by challenging designers from around the world to think about fashion in an eco-friendly context. The campaign also raises funds for MUSE School CA, a non-profit educational organization that Amis Cameron co-founded in Calabasas, California.

fashionado

VIVIENNE WESTWOOD MODELED IN HER OWN SHOW

Fashion month can be such a blur, but Vivienne Westwood's show was full of surprises. Models wore trash in their hair such as, wrappers, to-go cups, soda cans, etc. A male model carried a puppy in one hand, but overall Vivienne Westwood herself was the attention-grabber. The designer made two surprise runway appearances as a model and received a round of applause the moment she emerged. 

Let's not forget about the clothes. Although there was not a consistent theme, each look was showcasing and over the top which made the show more interesting. These looks included a hat with extended spikes; a quilted metallic purple coat; and a shall we say rather large penis drawing on a pair of skintight overalls on a man. For more details and pictures from the show, check out fashionista.com.

fashionado

Vivienne Westwood Fall 2017 Menswear

 If this collection is seemingly schizophrenic it's because it's by Vivienne Westwood in all her glory. Vivienne Westwood always takes social, political and/or cultural matters and reinterprets it... She's brilliant and one of my longtime faves. take apart this collection and there are some exquisite pieces to take home.  

fashionado

Project Runway [uh-vahnt-gahrd] Challenge

Avant-gardeuh-vahnt-gahrd; noun: is a term used when talking about something that is pushing the limits. Something that is going well above everything else usually used when talking about the arts, politics, and culture.

Even though the designers usually don't "get it" the avant-garde challenge is one of my favorites. With only five of them left, things are getting thick on Project Runway. So, lets breakdown these garments; who made it work and who didn't. 

Dmitry

produced good work. His biggest breakthrough was creating separates rather than the usual dress. He is obviously listening to the judges and pushing himself. Once again, Dmitry was praised for his skills set. That will take him far in this competition. Was his suit avant-garde? Not really. But it was different enough to stand out, well designed and of course, beautifully constructed. The collar piece, however, did not work. Not only was it hideous, it was so costumey that it served more as a distraction to the outfit than good. Edit Dmitry, edit!!

Oh

Christpher

. Sweet, young, pretty Christopher. About 20 years ago,

Vivienne Westwood

created a collection that featured exaggerated hips. The difference between hers and yours? She committed to the design and substantiated it with references, confidence and intelligence. You were probably wearing pull-ups then. Look, its a beautiful dress and the feathered arms gave us runway drama but this is not enough to make a garment avant-garde. But, hey, your safe so who cares.

Irony at it's best.

Fabio

did not win this challenge and was criticized for his look. Why is that ironic? Well, as

Michael Kors

pointed out [to Heidi], the avant-garde designer got flack for being too avant-garde...

Seriously judges

... Michael was the only one who got it right apparently. Clearly, the multifunctional coat- a showpiece- was innovative and experimental. The black shear outfit complemented it. He should have won ! Fabio was the only designer that understood the challenge.

Auf Wiedersehen

Sonjia

.

This is when Project Runway gets really tough. This was a good dress but someone had to go home. Okay, so I wasn't crazy about the color or the moiré pattern and the nude-esque fabric on top wasn't sheer enough. It was distracting. Still, I liked the dress and Sonjia is a good designer.

Melissa

! Brian Setzer of the Stray Cats called. He want's his Rockabilly chick back. OKAY judges, explain yourselves! How is this outfit more avant-garde than Fabio's?? Maybe you guys need to brush up on history. Melissa was the winner. Yup.

...and there you have it.... Tune in Thursday to Lifetime for a new episode of Project Runway!

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