Theory Fall 2019 Menswear

As luxury houses commit anew to tailoring and champion a certain masculine elegance, contemporary brands that tend to traffic in more casual fare face a quandary: to follow suit or not. Theory, a brand with its roots in officewear, back when offices required suiting, would seem to be better positioned than many other labels to succeed in 2019. Indeed, the company’s menswear designer Martin Andersson noted a behind-the-scenes focus on improving fabric quality. It was noticeable in a pair of suits, one black, the other a deep shade of burgundy. He showed layered knits, crewneck on top of mock-neck. The label isn’t giving up on that casual fare entirely.

Design and art world names both relatively unfamiliar and famous were among Andersson’s references for Fall. Faye Toogood’s Roly Poly fiberglass chairs, with their scooped seats and thick legs, seemed to inform his tailoring. A bonded twill duffle coat was cut with rounded kimono sleeves, and an unlined wool jersey blazer was constructed with raw edges. The results in both cases were clean and structured yet yielding—easy to wear. The painters Soulages and Rothko, meanwhile, informed the palette, with its understated emphasis on black layers and varying shades of red. All around, this Theory collection felt in step with the season’s dominant themes and talking points.

Source: VogueRunway

FASHIONADO

Acne Studios FALL 2019 MENSWEAR

When it comes to his part in the fashion playground, Jonny Johansson said this afternoon that he always feels like a double outsider: “Because we’re from Stockholm, which is from way outside [the fashion world], plus I’m from the very north of Sweden, which is way outside even Stockholm.” For this Acne Studios collection, Johansson harnessed the advantage that provenance from the periphery affords: fresh perspective.

Here, he worked to mash together many disparate elements into a newly coalesced menswear proposition. Farming has been a pretty rare reference at the shows, but it was present today in tractor-soled, half-length rubber work boots reimagined in leather; a flecked pale work jacket with a strapped satin utility pouch; and cow-print trenchcoats. He touched on late-mid-century bohemia and counterculture in the psychedelic swirl vests; superlong snoods with even longer fringing; and the colored snake-effect trenches, shirt-jackets, and moto pants. Shirts worn above high-waisted leather pants with carpenter’s pockets were semi-sheer and patterned with distressed chevrons in Lurex that Johansson had drawn from vintage soccer jerseys; these sometimes resembled Arsenal’s immortal “bruised banana” stripe of the 1990s.

There was stretch suiting in textured jersey, some nice long coats in soft velvet in hard colors (the pale, pale pistachio looked especially strong), fitted pants and tightly darted shorts in top-to-toe finely lined brown with lavender topstitching, and super-oversize work shirting. Pants featured vibrantly lined pockets that could be worn open on the hip, as they were in this show, but were also built to function when fastened at one side by hook and eye to the waistband. Accessories included rugged fanny packs and necklaces hanging with hollowed silver globes, partially sliced, whose insides were colored to complement the garments they were worn with. Whatever he says, Johansson these days is as inside as it gets in fashion; that outsider eye, however, remains.

Source: Luke Leitch/VogueRunway

FASHIONADO

OFF-WHITE + MR PORTER TEAM UP FOR "MODERN OFFICE" CAPSULE COLLECTION

Fresh from dropping its latest Nike Air Max 90 collaboration, Off-White™ has partnered with MR PORTER for an exclusive new collection. Titled “Modern Office,” the 44-piece collection is inspired by a new generation of workers, with influence coming from both traditional and modern sportswear.

The collection features ready-to-wear pieces, accessories and footwear with textures including wool, felt, cotton and heavy canvas. Graphics in the collection include a “Modern Office” logo and a “Class of 2013” graphic. Elsewhere, the collection will also include new low-top 3.0 leather sneakers, heavy canvas jackets and a logo-print camp-collar shirt. Take a look at the first preview of the collection in the gallery above. The full exclusive release will be priced between $60 USD and $1,440 USD, and is set to drop on January 21.

Source: Hypebeast

FASHIONADO

FW'18 Streetwear Looks at Cipriani During New York Fashion Week

Chicago Playground

Style Fashion Week

Shay Kawaii

Style Fashion Week

H33M

Style Fashion Week

Dertbag

Style Fashion Week

This past week at Cipriani, Dertbag, Shay Kawaii, H33M and Chicago Playground showcased their FW'18 collections during Style Fashion Week New York. While Style Fashion Week has been known for supporting established, emerging and international designers since their beginnings in 2011—this season, during New York Fashion Week, they partnered with Papertrail Magazine in an effort to support the increasingly popular streetwear culture. These young brands and designers, often the inspiration behind luxury giants, rarely make their way to the New York Fashion Week runway—operating under tight margins without corporate budgets to produce major runway shows. Style Fashion Week helps to share the cost of these major productions—providing designers the platform to display their work on the same level as their luxury competitors. Style Fashion Week recognizes that these designers are a vital piece of the fashion community and will continue to work to support them. (Photos by Mark Gunter)

fashionado

Engineered Garments Fall 2018 Menswear

View fullsize

View fullsize

View fullsize

View fullsize

Engineered Garments Fall 2018 Menswear - Not a fan of the red (slideshow above) and not a fan of the continued use of older models. If Engineered Garments doesn't start delivering fresh ideas soon, they are at risk of becoming a one trick pony. While their aesthetic, layering and styling speak to me, I fell like they've been repurposing concepts season after season.

fashionado

Theory Spring 2018 Menswear

THE NEW AMERICAN UNIFORM. Theory showed their Men's Spring '18 collection in New York City. Sartorial suiting, sports-informed leisurewear, updates on the uniform and innovations in tech-first fabrications defined Creative Director Martin Anderson's debut collection.

fashionado

A-Line Afros at Carlos Campos NYFW: Men’s S/S 2018

At New York Fashion Week: Men’s S/S 2018 Lead Hairstylist, T. Cooper of Metro Look, and her team were sponsored by ECRU New York and Wahl Professional to create tight Afro textured looks for the Carlos Campos show at IMG’s Fashion Week partner venue, Skylight Clarkson Sq. Carlos Campos is a celebrated menswear designer from Honduras. In 2007, he launched his namesake brand, Carlos Campos New York. The brand’s modern take on “classic American style… with a Latin twist” immediately earned him the respect and accolades of the US and Latin American fashion communities.

Cooper called the hairstyle the “A-Line Afro” and it was created by using ECRU products Defining Styling Potion, Dry Wax, and Acai Protein Oil. “Upon discussing the inspiration with Carlos, he let me know that this collection was all about strong lines. A lot of the models had natural hair, and he wanted to keep the texture, but didn’t want a big, round Afro to take away from the shape of the clothes. We decided to keep the hair fuller on top and much
tighter on the sides.” Cooper explained. After the cleaned up the hairline, sideburns, and facial hair with a Wahl Beret trimmer, the stylists saturated the models’ hair with Defining Styling Potion to eliminate frizz. The stylists then blow dried the models’ hair, while simultaneously rubbing it in a circular motion with their fingers to form tight coils. For models with longer hair on the sides, the stylists either brushed the sides and applied Dry Wax for hold, or pinned the hair back in a mohawk shape (depending on length). Finally, Acai Protein Oil was patted onto the Afros to add a hint of shine. “The diversity of the ECRU line, really allowed us to create texture on models with
different curl patterns beautifully!” said Cooper.

fashionado