A-Cold-Wall FALL 2022 MENSWEAR

A-Cold-Wall FALL 2022 MENSWEAR

Samuel Ross’ fall 2022 effort for A-Cold-Wall may be his most avant-garde yet; not always easy to like, but sometimes hard to get out of your head. Here were pants as curved as parenthesis, enveloping coats with wire-framed hoods that obscure the face, or burqa-like hoods that make one think of samurai head armor — or if you live in London, perhaps Renzo Piano’s striking building known as The Shard.

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The Fashion-forward ANT/DOTE

The Fashion-forward ANT/DOTE

ANT/DOTE, a multi-brand boutique for women and men, founded by the noted art patron and fashion aficionado, Lauren Amos, announces its debut in September 2021. More than a store, ANT/DOTE aims to broaden the conversation around fashion in order to see it more as a cultural exchange rather than mere commodity—hence the name ANT/DOTE.

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HERON PRESTON ANNOUNCES GLOBAL RETAIL TOUR FOR HIS DEBUT AW17 COLLECTION

heron preston

HERON PRESTON ANNOUNCES GLOBAL RETAIL TOUR FOR HIS DEBUT AW17 COLLECTION
The Designer’s First Full Collection Will Begin Landing In-Stores Globally On May 20, 2017. Preston Will Move Across Cities To Celebrate The Collection With A Series Of In-Store Events, The First Of Which Will Take Place In Moscow On May 19, 2017.

Heron Preston, the innovative creator whose fashion collaboration with the Department of Sanitation made headlines during New York Fashion Week in September, will celebrate the global launch of his first full collection for his eponymous line with a series of events in key cities including Tokyo, Milan, Seoul, New York, Paris, London, and Moscow – the Russian capital will serve as the launching point for Preston's retail tour with a pop-up store at iconic concept store KM20 that will open on May 19, 2017.

Preston will travel across the globe to Russia to set up a pop-up space in collaboration with KM20 concept store to mark the initial drop of the highly anticipated debut collection from the New York-based designer's AW17 season. The collection, titled For You, The World offers a cohesive narrative, tying in ideas, graphics and inspiration that Preston has explored in capsule collections and exclusive releases over the years.

The Heron Preston KM20 pop-up will run for three days starting on Friday, May 19, 2017; on day one of the pop-up Olga Karput, KM20’s founder will host an event with Preston to earmark the opening of the pop-up. Preston's pop-up at KM20 will showcase a number of Heron Preston x DSNY items presented during NYFW in September 2017 alongside the main AW17 collection and a limited edition graphic tee created for the retail tour partners exclusively for sale at these limited pop-up installations.

Preston, who functions as an artist and creative director in addition to his work as a designer, has designed a unique pop-up installation incorporating video and art installations, metal mechanical arms and heavy-duty machinery. The launch event on May 19th in Moscow at KM20 will feature music by Virgil Abloh and DJ CYBER69 and take place in the parking garage directly underneath the Maison in the city center, the future location of KM20, 2 Stoleshnikov street. KM20 plans to move into the space permanently this coming fall. The new location will allow for a large-scale expansion for KM20 with a square footage multiplying a little more than five times than that of its current location.

Preston selected Moscow as the starting point for this retail tour as Russia has been a source of inspiration for the designer his love of the Cyrillic alphabet is what led Preston to incorporate the iconic Стиль embroidery element seen throughout his designs.

“In 2014 Nick Knight was curating a 'hip-hop in the 80’s' photo exhibition in his SHOWstudio gallery and invited me to create a t-shirt for that project. For the direction, I decided to focus on hip hop culture's obsession with style and branding. I designed a metal tee and wrote “STYLE” in Russian because I loved the style of letters in the Cyrillic alphabet. What started out as a single idea crossed over into more of my work over the years and eventually became my sub- logo. For the launch of my first collection, I felt an American designer debuting in Russia would be different from what everyone else in the industry is doing while staying authentic to the story of my brand. I'm excited to connect with the place that inspired my logo and share my culture with Russian youth.” – Heron Preston on his iconic Стиль turtleneck

The Heron Preston pop-up space at the KM20 underground parking garage will be open from May 19th to May 21st at 2 Stoleshnikov street.

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Iris van Herpen Spring 2017 Couture

Iris van Herpen Spring 2017 Couture

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Comme des Garçons Spring 2017

Runway: Comme des Garçons Spring 2017.

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Rick Owens Spring 2017

Stunning runway. Rick Owens Spring 2017 ready-to-wear. Paris Fashion Week. See full collection.

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Androgyny, Avant- Garde & Clueless Designers: Project Runway All Stars

project-runway-all-stars-fashionado

Androgyny

is a term derived from the 

Greek

words ανήρ, 

stem

ανδρ- (anér, andr-, meaning man) and γυνή (gyné, meaning woman), referring to the combination of masculine and feminine characteristics.

Avant-garde

(French pronunciation: [avɑ̃ɡaʁd] ); from French, "advance guard" or "vanguard[1] ) is a French term used in English as a noun or adjective to refer to people or works that are experimental or innovative, particularly with respect to artculture, and politics.

[Thanks Wikipedia!]

Project Runway All Stars get a clue! Their challenge was to design and create androgynous and avant-garde looks. Obviously the All Stars haven't heard of designers 

Ann Demeulemeester

or

Rick Owens

or they would have understood the aesthetic being asked of them! Well, at least they are entertaining. And to be fair, some of the designers got it, kinda.

After a visit to Mood and about a day of construction,

Georgina Chapman

visits the work room to deliver a manly twist. Suddenly, and much to their horror, the designers found themselves creating a companion look for male models. I won't lie to you, it was a fun episode made sweeter by all the mancandy. 

Lets breakdown all the looks:

project-runway-all-stars-fashionado
project-runway-all-stars-fashionado

Althea did well. She wasn't on top or bottom. Safe is good. The layering contributes to level of androgyny by eliminating masculine/feminine shape. I'm not too crazy about the loose fitting trousers and the leather treatments, looks cheap. The male model does not need to be wearing lipstick!

project-runway-all-stars-fashionado
project-runway-all-stars-fashionado

Golden boy, Anthony Ryan, once again had the judges worshiping him. This week, I won't argue it too much because he

did

have one of the best designs. Personally, I'd like to see the train on the male model's shirt go away. Anthony could have used that fabric to give him sleeves. A number of the designers went sleeveless for the men. What was up with that??

project-runway-all-stars-fashionado
project-runway-all-stars-fashionado

OMFG Casanova, I don't even know what to say. Perhaps International Male is hiring???

project-runway-all-stars-fashionado
project-runway-all-stars-fashionado

Ivy nailed it... IF this were the Cirque du Soleil challenge. This is awful! I can't get past the ridiculous face painting to even speak about this intelligently.

project-runway-all-stars-fashionado
project-runway-all-stars-fashionado

I'm torn with Joshua's. I love the male model's look. It's modern, edgy and [somewhat] meets the challenge requirements. The female, however,  just doesn't do it. "Different" doesn't make something avant-garde. Luckily Joshua was safe. I like him on the show.

project-runway-all-stars-fashionado
project-runway-all-stars-fashionado

Uli gave us a rock / punk look that mostly worked. I actually loved both pieces, including the styling. The only issue I have is that Uli's designs were a little too costumey.

project-runway-all-stars-fashionado
project-runway-all-stars-fashionado

Laura Kathleen gave us another OMFG moment. Or is this more of a WTF? In full disclosure, she made it known that this was a very difficult challenge for her because her work is so far from androgyny and the avant-garde. BUT that's an excuse! C'mon Laura Kathleen, that just doesn't fly OR justify OR forgive the disaster and embarrassment you sent down the runway!

project-runway-all-stars-fashionado
project-runway-all-stars-fashionado

I love the over-size houndstooth but I would have preferred it stay on the bolt of fabric. Kayne, this was a fail. I can't get past the ruffled collar. The female model looks like a jester. And I haven't decided if the male model embraces androgyny or if he's just really really gay.

project-runway-all-stars-fashionado
project-runway-all-stars-fashionado

Emilio Sosa won the challenge. He nailed the androgyny factor but I'm not convinced his look was avant-garde enough. However, it did have incredible stage presence which is what wowed the judges.

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