60 Looks, Runway Recap: Jeffrey Fashion Cares 2017

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Photos by Ben Rose.

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Arbiter of style, Jeffrey Kalinsky, creator of two namesake boutiques in Atlanta and Manhattan, celebrated 25 years of Jeffrey Fashion Cares Atlanta on Monday August 28, 2017. The annual fashion forward and philanthropic event was once again hosted by Event Chairs Lila Hertz, Jeffrey McQuithy and Louise Sams.  A sold-out evening, the City’s most notable gathered in Phipps Plaza in the heart of Buckhead to enjoy a high-energy reception and silent auction followed by a live auction and runway show featuring Kalinsky’s style selections from high-end designers such as Celine, Christian Dior, Givenchy, Valentino, Dries van Noten, Saint Laurent Paris, Balenciaga, Michael Halpern, Christian Louboutin and Manolo Blahnik. 

Jeffrey McQuithy, Jeffrey Kalinsky, Lila Hertz & Louise Sams - the Fashion Cares Dream Team!

Kalinsky and Jeffrey Fashion Cares were also granted a Phoenix Award, the highest honor that can be bestowed on a citizen for service to the City of Atlanta by the Mayor. The award recognizes outstanding achievements and service to the city, state, nation or world.  

The 25th anniversary of Jeffrey Fashion Cares benefitted Susan G. Komen Greater Atlanta, the Atlanta AIDS Fund (AAF), and the Medical University of South Carolina. Over the course of its history, Jeffrey Fashion Cares has raised more than 15 million dollars for its beneficiaries.  For more information, visit jeffreyfashioncares.com

Coming soon to fashionado: full video coverage of the 25th annual Jeffrey Fashion Cares, including the entire runway finale walk!

Jeffrey Kalinsky’s Fall Trend Forecast: 

Out with the minimal, and in with the maximal- so goes the ever-revolving door of fashion trends. For Fall 2017, we are revisiting the powerful, exaggerated silhouettes and over-the-top embellishments of the 1980’s. From New York all the way to Paris, runways were lit up by each designers’ newfound flair for extravagance. It is finally time to open your minds and your closets to daring, yet infinitely chic possibilities. Shop on…

Power Shoulders: One of the most memorable fashion moments of the 1980’s (aside from the larger-than-life hair) were the larger-than-life shoulder pads. Think cropped couture jackets and little party frocks all with a dramatic shoulder line that creates the illusion of a smaller waist.

Fun Furs: When the temperature starts to drop, nothing says decadence quite like swathing yourself in fur. This season, don’t let your exceptionally soft selection of outerwear be merely utilitarian; instead, choose one that is just as unique and cheerful as it is cozy.

Rare Birds: Feathers are no doubt the biggest story in embellishment this season. Bright, bold, beautiful plumes could be spotted flouncing down the catwalk of practically every major designer. 

Give Them the Slip: Who says silken slip dresses must be confined to the bedroom?  If you are afraid of being mistaken for a sleepwalker, layer an asymmetrical, lace-trimmed slip over a t-shirt or sweater for a decidedly modern look. 

Flower Power: As Miranda Priestly famously taught us in The Devil Wears Prada, florals are by no means groundbreaking for spring. They are, however, an unexpected delight for fall and winter. This season, designer’s showcased moody, yet bold versions of the print that would feel right at home in an 18th century painting.

fashionado

Project Runway PARIS; Couture du jour.

[caption id="attachment_18924" align="aligncenter" width="440" caption="Uli in the Project Runway work room."]

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The last couple of

Project Runway

episodes have been terrific! Last week, the four remaining designers were treated to a day among the exclusive world of haute couture. The jet-setting Uli, Emilio, Joshua and Anthony enjoyed a first class one day, yes one day, trip to Paris where they were given a tour of Maison Valentino, sketched designs while over-looking the Eiffel Tower, ate, drank and shopped for luxurious fabrics. The designers created "couture-inspired" runway looks using the fabrics they bought in Paris.

Uli got grilled by the judges for the illusion lining she used throughout her dress. They felt it took away from the design. Isaac Mizrahi said the dress looked like a very expensive RTW gown rather than couture. Carolyn Murphy wasn't keen on the back zipper and heaviness of the trim around it. I don't entirely disagree with them but it's Uli who had the last laugh in a "fuck you" moment at the very end as pointed out by guest judge, designer Cynthia Rowley. And bleeped out by Lifetime.

There's a time to try out new things. A time to experiment on Project Runway... BUT this was not the challenge to go there as Joshua did. And it cost him dearly. The first problem I had was with the skirt fabric, aside from the hideous factor, who goes to Paris and comes back with a fabric that ugly with designs on couture?!!! I guess Joshua was inspired with Jekyll and Hyde because there were two polar opposite looks there. There's the black sheer top which was gorgeous and then we got to the cascading floral vomit. Like the judges, I get where Joshua was trying to go with this look. Too bad he got lost.

I'm exhausted. Anthony Ryan wins. Again.

This is the dress that should have WON! Emilio Sosa delivered such elegance and sophistication. The fabric was so amazing and the design was dramatic and show-stopping. The ONLY criticism he received was from Isaac Mizrahi who felt the dress should have been five inches shorter so you could see the shoes.

*I have a theory/fantasy about what may happen: Golden Boy frontrunner wins All Stars.  

OR

the producers/judges have been messing with us all along, leading us to believe Anthony Ryan will win and in a dramatic finale twist, he doesn't!  So do we go with the obvious or the twist? #TeamUli here.

Speaking of twists. The bottom two designers, Uli and Joshua, were given a new challenge and one hour to complete it. They had to reconstruct their couture gowns into something entirely different. Uli turned the unpopular lining into a dress and won the mini-challenge, hence safe and on to the big finale!

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Androgyny, Avant- Garde & Clueless Designers: Project Runway All Stars

Androgyny

is a term derived from the 

Greek

words ανήρ, 

stem

ανδρ- (anér, andr-, meaning man) and γυνή (gyné, meaning woman), referring to the combination of masculine and feminine characteristics.

Avant-garde

(French pronunciation: [avɑ̃ɡaʁd] ); from French, "advance guard" or "vanguard" [1] ) is a French term used in English as a noun or adjective to refer to people or works that are experimental or innovative, particularly with respect to art, culture, and politics.

[Thanks Wikipedia!]

Project Runway All Stars get a clue! Their challenge was to design and create androgynous and avant-garde looks. Obviously the All Stars haven't heard of designers 

Ann Demeulemeester

or

Rick Owens

or they would have understood the aesthetic being asked of them! Well, at least they are entertaining. And to be fair, some of the designers got it, kinda.

After a visit to Mood and about a day of construction,

Georgina Chapman

visits the work room to deliver a manly twist. Suddenly, and much to their horror, the designers found themselves creating a companion look for male models. I won't lie to you, it was a fun episode made sweeter by all the mancandy. 

Lets breakdown all the looks:

Althea did well. She wasn't on top or bottom. Safe is good. The layering contributes to level of androgyny by eliminating masculine/feminine shape. I'm not too crazy about the loose fitting trousers and the leather treatments, looks cheap. The male model does not need to be wearing lipstick!

Golden boy, Anthony Ryan, once again had the judges worshiping him. This week, I won't argue it too much because he

did

have one of the best designs. Personally, I'd like to see the train on the male model's shirt go away. Anthony could have used that fabric to give him sleeves. A number of the designers went sleeveless for the men. What was up with that??

OMFG Casanova, I don't even know what to say. Perhaps International Male is hiring???

Ivy nailed it... IF this were the Cirque du Soleil challenge. This is awful! I can't get past the ridiculous face painting to even speak about this intelligently.

I'm torn with Joshua's. I love the male model's look. It's modern, edgy and [somewhat] meets the challenge requirements. The female, however,  just doesn't do it. "Different" doesn't make something avant-garde. Luckily Joshua was safe. I like him on the show.

Uli gave us a rock / punk look that mostly worked. I actually loved both pieces, including the styling. The only issue I have is that Uli's designs were a little too costumey.

Laura Kathleen gave us another OMFG moment. Or is this more of a WTF? In full disclosure, she made it known that this was a very difficult challenge for her because her work is so far from androgyny and the avant-garde. BUT that's an excuse! C'mon Laura Kathleen, that just doesn't fly OR justify OR forgive the disaster and embarrassment you sent down the runway!

I love the over-size houndstooth but I would have preferred it stay on the bolt of fabric. Kayne, this was a fail. I can't get past the ruffled collar. The female model looks like a jester. And I haven't decided if the male model embraces androgyny or if he's just really really gay.

Emilio Sosa won the challenge. He nailed the androgyny factor but I'm not convinced his look was avant-garde enough. However, it did have incredible stage presence which is what wowed the judges.

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Project Runway: the Lord & Taylor dress...

In episode 7, the

Project Runway

designers were presented with an exciting collaboration with retailer

Lord & Taylor

. They were challenged to design a dress that will "fit in" with a collection of dresses designed by past Project Runway winners. The winning look will be manufactured and sold in Lord & Taylor stores. Not too shabby! The designers skipped a visit to

Mood

this time since they were provided textiles specific to the challenge.

[caption id="attachment_16761" align="aligncenter" width="440" caption="Ven Budhu & Sonjia Williams"]

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I never cared for

Ven

and now, after his insensitivity towards plus-size women and his offensive remarks, I can't even stand to look at him.

Sonjia Williams

, on the other hand, I've liked quite a bit until this episode. She really needs to shut the hell up about sending the boys home. What is up with that?

Just sew

... Almost every time it was just her and the camera she'd go off on a tirade about sending all the guys home and critical about their designs and skills. Well, Sonjia, karma's a bitch and you've been slapped! She had a meltdown over the construction / fit of her dress. I didn't feel sorry for her.

Flower power

Fabio

has bring bringing it every week lately. Another good dress. It was his version of the LBD. It was simple, but chic, with a chiffon layer added for richness and fluidity. The asymmetrical cut was attractive and the back zipper introduced modernity.

Not winning a challenge is starting to bring

Dmitry

down. But hey, he's either been in the top three or safe every time. I've been saying for a few weeks now that his problem is that he is playing it too safe. Dmitry has the skills set to produce an exciting and innovative dress. Bump up it up!!

One of my favorite designers this season is

Melissa Fleis

. This dress, however was not one of my choices. Melissa struggled in the workroom and rushed it at the end. It showed. The bottom hem came to an exaggerated pointed peak; kinda hideous.

Gunnar

was in the bottom with the lowest score. The judges grilled him for making a dress style that has been seen over and over in department stores across the nation. They are "tired" of the lace / sequin combos. I liked his dress and while it was not the most innovative, it was certainly marketable. AND seeing that this was a challenge to have your design manufactured and sold in Lord & Taylor stores, wouldn't you want that marketability factor? Well, perhaps the judges saw the light and in a surprise twist, did NOT send Gunnar home. No one went home!

Pretty in tattered pink chiffon winner,

Christopher Palu

. He nailed it. From the beginning of the challenge, Christopher stuck through his vision of a long dress. The pink and black combination, the silhouette and it's simplicity won the judges over. Of course, it wouldn't be Project Runway without some drama mixed with a splash of hypocrisy. Christopher was not surprised when the judges gave him a hard time over the continuos use of his chiffon-shredding technique.

Michael Kors

brought it up and

Heidi

"warned" the designer to stop doing it.

Whatever Project Runway!

At the beginning of the episode, Christopher referred to this technique as a signature of his designs. The judges often say they don't know"who you are as a designer" and now that a designer is successfully using a self-defining technique they give him grief for it.

*Watch full episode

here

.

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Project Runway : Women (and designers) on the Go!

The

Project Runway

designers started the day at the

Michael Kors

showroom where they were greeted by Michael and Tim who challenged them to design and create a look for the modern girl - the "Women on Go." Right away things went down drama lane as

Tim Gunn

informed the designers that their co-competitor

Andrea Katz

was out of the competition. She left in the middle of the night without word. The first 30 minutes of the show was centered around gossip and opinions about why she left. It was frustrating and entertaining at the same time.

Within those 30 minutes

Kooan

had an announcement of his own...

"I'm a little weird," announced Kooan. [No shit!] Realizing that he was out of his league, Kooan announced that he was leaving the competition. Kooan displayed more respect to the group and himself than Andrea did by at least letting them know he was pulling out rather than cowardly leaving in the middle of the night while everyone was asleep.

Cry baby Nathan had a mini-meltdown and tried to quit too.

Tim Gunn found Squiggy from Laverne & Shirley hanging out in the Parsons hallway and invited him to join the cast of designers.

Ven

may be kind of an ass, but he's a damn good designer. I hope he turns up the wow-factor dial and stop playing it so safe.

Designer

Melissa Fleis

created one of the best looks yet it didn't even place in the top three. Her layered, avant-garde design was well constructed, ambitious and the most innovative of the group.

The judges, specifically Michael, pointed out the disparity in styling between

Fabio's

personal style and the look he created. He's right. Fabio's look does not represent him. And it's poorly constructed. And ugly.

Dmitry

was singled out as the most skilled designer of the bunch. He impressed Tim Gunn in the work room when he pointed out the dress he was making was a whole piece of fabric with only one seam. The judges liked his look but wished he had used red fabric (or any other color) for that wow-effect.

[Squiggy]

Raul Osorio

nearly went home again! He showed us that his skills and talent are moderate. He was in the bottom two. No surprise.

There's a difference between tacky and funky.

Buffi

proved she is enormously tacky, the judges agreed and sent her packing. Even her model, as evidenced by her facial expressions, felt ridiculous in that get-up. What's very unfortunate [for Buffi] was that

Christopher Palu

recognized the pink chiffon/zebra print disaster in the making and offered his spare fabric, black chiffon. She not only refused but was offended.

What a tacky dumbass...

Sonjia Williams

won the "Women on the Go" challenge. It seemed a close call with Christopher's look. They were both smart, stylish, easy to wear dresses. Sonjia is talented and I'm happy for her win. The only criticism I have about both dresses is that I don't like the gathered, drapey fabric on the skirt. The outfits don't need it. In fact, they detract from their style and devalue their chic quality.

My

bitch slap

of the week goes to Andrea Katz for shamefully quitting Project Runway. As the oldest member of the cast, as a professional and as an educator, her actions were disappointing.

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