CFDA + Vogue Launch Program to Fight COVID-19

In response to the pandemic, the CFDA/Vogue Fashion fund has been repurposed and rechristenend A Common Thread. Tom Ford and Anna Wintour Photo credit: Clint Spaulding/WWD

In response to the pandemic, the CFDA/Vogue Fashion fund has been repurposed and rechristenend A Common Thread. Tom Ford and Anna Wintour Photo credit: Clint Spaulding/WWD

“What can we do?”

Anna Wintour posed that question to CFDA chairman Tom Ford earlier this month in reference to the coronavirus pandemic that has devastated the fashion industry. Both notoriously proactive and intrepid, they came up with a plan within days: to repurpose the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund, shifting focus from emerging designers to all the American fashion community who are severely financially impacted by the COVID-19 fallout.

The initiative, renamed A Common Thread, aims to raise awareness as well as money. Beginning March 25, designers and those who work behind the scenes across the industry can submit videos in which they tell their fashion stories, including the impact of the pandemic on their careers and lives. The videos will live on the digital platforms of the CFDA, Vogue and all Condé Nast titles. The program utilizes the hashtag #cvffacommonthread.

Logo for A Common Thread, the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund COVID-19 Relief Fund.

Logo for A Common Thread, the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund COVID-19 Relief Fund.

Wintour came up with the name A Common Thread, the logo for which features a sewing needle and red thread in the shape of a rose, the needle pulling the thread and piercing the bloom. Word of the program will go out to CFDA membership today in a letter penned by Wintour, which she and Ford signed.

“It’s easy to feel helpless as the news changes hour by hour, and the challenges it all presents only seem to grow and become more insurmountable as time goes on,” it reads.

To lessen the sense of isolation and desperation, the message encourages members to take advantage of available city and state resources, listed on the CFDA web site. “Yet,” the letter continues, “the question remains for us: What can we do to help?”

A Common Thread is Wintour and Ford’s initial answer. Although the fund’s parameters have been fully defined, designers and brands seeking relief can apply on the CFDA web site beginning on April 8.

“We’ve created a fund, now we have to fill it. Then we have to figure out who gets that money,” Ford said on Monday, noting that significant details — criteria for consideration; who will decide how funds are allotted and to whom — “need to be fleshed out.”Already established: The program is open to designers and brands across the industry. They need not be former CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund winners, nor even CFDA members. While the selection committee remains TBD, it will include people from both within and outside of Vogue and the CFDA, according to Ford.“We’re rushing to put this together as fast as possible because we want to let everyone have a voice in this. We want to do something,” he said.

See Also: Fashion Industry Comes Together to Fight Coronavirus Pandemic

The CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund has awarded $6.6 million in prize money since its inception, with the most recent annual purse a total of $700,000 distributed among the winner and two runners-up. Those resources will be transferred to A Common Thread. In addition, there’s a crowd-funding element. As of today, donors can contribute by texting “thread” to 44321 or online at givelively.org, a fund-raising platform for nonprofits. Suggested amounts range from $5 to $100 to name-your-number.If that approach seems modest relative to the devastation wrought by COVID-19, Ford and Wintour will likely seek major-donor contributions going forward.

There is no reason that we’re not at some point going to be hitting up larger companies for bigger contributions,” Ford said. “It will really depend on what happens after all this is over. If it only lasts three months, I think we’ll be able to raise more money than if it drags on and on.”Yet it’s one thing to offer a young, fledgling designer-led company a first prize of $400,000 and mentorship by an industry leader to help kick-start his or her business. It’s quite another to, in a meaningful way, help an entire, vast industry comprised of thousands of businesses, many of them already challenged before the virus struck, to rebound in a landscape that’s almost completely dark, producing next to zero revenue for who knows how long. The level of relief required (if any amount will be enough) is more in line with that sought in a parallel CFDA effort spearheaded by Tory Burch made known over the weekend — explicit inclusion in the near-$2 trillion federal stimulus package now being battled over in Congress.Ford praised that effort, and stressed the necessity of its success. “I have to say, Tory has done a great job,” he said. He added that while the letter sent to President Trump and signed by the CFDA and a host of other industry organizations “was quite general,” in behind-the-scenes exchanges, “people were getting quite specific.”By comparison, what A Common Thread can deliver is modest. “We’re not senators,” Ford said, while noting that the two efforts serve overlapping but not identical purposes.To that end, A Common Thread’s storytelling component should resonate powerfully. “There is symbolism to it and in a way, maybe that’s the bigger part of it — uploading videos, putting faces to everyone who’s out of a job, who needs a job, giving them a place where they can communicate that. I think the power of that will affect the funds we’re able to raise, and from whom.“Whether you’re a seamstress or a tailor, whether you work in a shop, whether you’re a fashion designer, whether you’re someone who won the Vogue/CFDA Fashion Fund, you will [send in] videos to the site,” Ford continued. “I think that the more we can put faces to the individuals who are suffering, the more help we’ll be able to get.”

See Also: Fashion Groups Seek Government Aid

To that end, fashion suffers from an image problem. Though a huge industry that’s central to the economy and employs, including retail, millions of workers in a vast array of mostly unglamorous disciplines on every imaginable pay scale, generally, when people think of the fashion industry they don’t conjure images of seamstresses, patternmakers, production people and retail sales associates. Rather, they envision its glamour deities — celebrities like Wintour and Ford.Worse, they often project a world in a bubble, an elite, exquisitely dressed bubble whose denizens live to be on the front end of the next hot handbag launch while flaunting chic attitude. “Let’s face it, a lot of people think fashion is frivolous,” Ford said.

Wintour concurs that perception is not only misguided but dangerous, particularly now. “[Too many people] think about fashion in a very narrow sense,” she told WWD on Sunday. “They’re not thinking about all the different layers that are involved, whether it’s the factories or the supply chain or those who supply raw materials, or the truck drivers who deliver the goods. It stretches out so many different ways. I think it’s the biggest employer in the country. People are not thinking about it in that way. They’re thinking about it as a very niche business, and that is a mistake.”

One for which fashion itself must accept a share of responsibility. “People see the glossy surface,” Ford said. “That’s what we as fashion designers and the fashion industry work to show the world — we work to show people the glossy surface that makes them want to shop and buy the products. So they’re not aware of everything that goes on behind it.

”That must change now. “We have to educate,” Ford offered.

Which speaks to the importance of A Common Thread’s video project. “It’s very important to put faces to this,” he said, noting the resonant power of Tom and Rita Hanks going public with their diagnoses, as well as the tragedy of the New Jersey family that has lost four members to COVID-19. “When you see the photographs, when you hear the stories,” Ford said, “it touches you emotionally far more than statistics will.”

Source: WWD /  Bridget Foley

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The CFDA and Retail Industry Sends Letter to the White House Calling for Support Amidst Coronavirus Crisis

Lower Manhattan streets are all but emptied of shoppers. Photo: VogueRunway/Getty Images

Lower Manhattan streets are all but emptied of shoppers. Photo: VogueRunway/Getty Images

As the coronavirus pandemic has taken hold of the U.S. over the last week, designers have been outspoken about the challenges facing the fashion industry in this crisis. Citing impending cash flow issues for brands up and down the price spectrum Prabal Gurung told Vogue that “this situation will not be fixed by a sale.” Brandon Maxwell, for his part, said “my main focus through all of this is going to be my team and keeping everyone employed, number one, and making sure everyone is feeling healthy, mentally and physically.” Retailers, too, have been forthright about the struggles posed by “stay-at-home” and “shelter in place” regulations. “The supply chain is severely affected by this. I can only imagine, in the coming months, how it will affect things for next season... There is no question that it will be a challenging year ahead of us,” said Andrew Dryden, the co-founder of LA’s menswear mecca Departamento.

Yesterday, the CFDA and 90 business groups including the National Retail Federation, the Accessories Council, and the Fashion Footwear Association of New York brought their concerns to the White House, sending a letter to President Trump calling for economic stabilization efforts amidst the coronavirus pandemic. The letter begins by commending the Administration and Congress for their public health efforts and actions to minimize the economic fallout caused by the spread of the virus. It goes on, however, to state: “The economic harm from social distancing and mandatory store closures is real. Layoffs and economic hardship will surely follow, particularly for smaller, specialty retailers and brands. The biggest single issue facing the industry right now is liquidity, and federal stimulus efforts must be swift and flexible enough to address the urgent need for access to credit to keep these businesses afloat.” The letter concludes by encouraging policymakers to develop proposals that support the retail workforce and to provide a “bridge” for retail businesses of all sizes to stay viable during the crisis.

“The fashion business has been hit hard and from every angle. American Fashion is a $400 billion driving force of the US economy employing 4 million people, not including retail jobs. The retail industry is the nation’s largest private-sector employer, contributing $4 trillion to annual GDP and supporting one in four U.S. jobs—53 million working Americans,” said Tom Ford, Chairman of the Board of the CFDA. “Tory Burch has been actively driving a CFDA effort to urge the President and Congress that fashion and retail be part of any stimulus packages being developed. She quickly organized a group of industry leaders who were behind the letter that was sent the President on Saturday. The CFDA’s strength lies within it members, and we are thankful for Tory’s commitment to our industry.”

“It is imperative that our government, the federal reserve, regulators, and the public understand the vital importance of our industry to the overall economy of the United States,” Burch told Vogue. “Directly and indirectly we are one of the largest employers and contributors to the GDP. We must make our voices heard ... for our industry and our country!”

John Idol, the Chairman and CEO of Capri Holdings, parent company of Michael Kors, Versace, and Jimmy Choo, echoed Burch’s sentiments: “As with all Americans, the most important issue facing us is employment. We know that this pandemic will eventually subside and the industry will return to a new normal. In the interim, we need financial assistance in the form of immediate payroll subsidies, no-interest loans, and extended tax-payment relief in order for us to continue our commitment to retain our employees.”

In Washington DC today, negotiations around a stimulus package of approximately $1.4 trillion are ongoing. As the retail industry waited to hear the outcome—an announcement is expected Monday morning—Marc Metrick, the President of Saks Fifth Avenue, emphasized the importance of community: “Our utmost priority is the health and well-being of our people, customers, and communities. Our industry has historically faced and overcome a number of headwinds. This situation is not only unprecedented, but also constantly evolving. The best and most important thing we can do today is to work together as an industry, so that all of us can weather this storm and come out the other side.”

Source: Nicole Phelps/ VogueRunway

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Raf Simons Discusses His Post-Calvin Klein Plans in New Interview

Raf-Simons-Kvadrat

To mark the launch of his latest Kvadrat collaboration at this year’s Milan Design WeekRaf Simons sat down with The Guardian to discuss his work with the textile label as well as his plans after leaving Calvin Klein in late December. Speaking about the launch installation for his new work with the Danish brand, Simons explains that it will “have a cafe, and a space for social interaction. It’s not a showroom, it’s an environment, a place of inspiration.”

As well as his ongoing work with Kvadrat, Simons also covers his ever-growing and increasingly ambitious art collection. Speaking about the works, Simons described his collection as “quite a responsibility. I’m not exactly buying things you can ship back home in a crate and hang on the wall.” Because of this, Simons is considering turning his collection into an art foundation: ”I’m not interested in setting up a really private private foundation. Rather something with education and collaboration built into it.”

While Simons mainly covers his future plans in the interview, the Belgian designer also discusses how the fashion industry has changed over the course of his career: “In the past, a designer made a collection and presented it to a small audience of professionals, then one picture appeared in a magazine, and months later the clothes came to the shops. Oh my God, the desire that created! Now everyone sees the runway show right away, and by the time the clothes are available, people have moved on to something else. This fast communication, it’s exciting but it can be dangerous, too. Damaging.”

Source: HYPEBEAST

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