FOOD FOR THOUGHT | January-February 2019

Avocado toast at the new Coalition Food and Beverage in downtown Alpharetta. Its focus is modernized 1950s diner food. (All food photos by David Danzig.)

New year brings new eats, from a Japanese invasion

and OTP migration to a pancake proliferation,

falafel infiltration and seafood termination. Whew!

NEW TASTES are promised near and far, from downtown, Midtown and all along Ponce, to Alpharetta, Fayetteville and Winder. It’s all Food for Thought.

Shrimp sando and lotus chips from Monomoki, near Georgia Tech.

Well done

At the base of a new steel-and-glass tower overlooking the Downtown Connector near Georgia Tech comes MOMONOKI, a new concept from chef JASON LIANG, one of the creative forces behind Decatur’s popular Brush Sushi Izakaya.

Order at the counter and get some of the slurpiest ramen soups in town along with tsukemen (dipping ramen), Donburi(raw or cooked rice bowls), Katsu Sando(Japanese cutlet sandwiches served on perfect milk toast), salads and other small plates.

A full bar is stocked with cocktails, sake, wine, and local and Japanese beers but be sure to save room for desserts from pastry chef CHING YAO WANG, Liang’s wife. Many are made with matcha, a Japanese green tea that refreshes the palate in a soothing, semi-sweet way. …

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The housemade pretzels at Alpharetta’s Coalition.

Brothers DAN PERNICE and RYAN PERNICE turned heads a few years back when they opened both Table and Main and Osteria Mattone.

They’re back with a third effort, COALITION FOOD AND BEVERAGE, a handsome spot off the square in downtown Alpharetta.

Chef WOLLERY BACK (formerly of Craft, Restaurant Eugene, and Holeman and Finch) hand-cranks a food fire contraption and churns out modern versions of 1950s diner fare: house-made pretzels, St. Louis-style barbecue ribs, crispy crabcakes, classic club sandwiches and blackened tuna burgers on Alon’s Bakery bread. These are cheffed-up, approachable and skillfully prepared. …

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Krog Street Market welcomes Watchman’s.

The team behind Decatur’s James Beard-nominated KIMBALL HOUSE has christened WATCHMAN’S SEAFOOD AND SPIRITS in Krog Street Market, just off the Atlanta BeltLine in what was once The Luminary.

No fishing nets or stuffed marlins on the walls here, no Jimmy Buffet on the sound system. This is a hip spot in a hip neighborhood. Sustainably farmed oysters from Alabama to North Carolina go with dishes like a shrimp roll sandwich, steamed clams, ceviche verde and a fisherman’s stew made with grouper, shrimp, crabs and oysters.

The bar program comes from legendary mixologist MILES MACQUARRIE, a compact list of masterful ocean-inspired libations with roots that run from Havana to Key West and anywhere along the Southeast coast of the United States. …

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Farm-fresh produce at Winder’s Bistro Off Broad.

In historic downtown Winder, chef ALEX FRIEDMAN (formerly of Inman Park’s Pcheen) has set up shop in a brick building that dates to the 1890s. BISTRO OFF BROAD brings a sophisticated approach to comfort food.

Everything that grows in soil or dwells on land comes from a nearby farm: baked brie with honeycomb and figs, Ossabaw Island barbecue (Friedman does all his own butchering), crispy duck with pumpkin and sage risotto, venison with roasted okra, and pork chops with sweet corn pudding.

If you need a nautical nosh, try the cold-water oysters, sea scallops, Carolina trout or a tempura-fried shrimp po’boy with tomato jam. It’s a gem that would be at home in the hippest intown neighborhood.

Simmering

Kevin Rathbun

In a matter of weeks, Super Bowl LIII (53 for non-Romans) will kick its way into Mercedes-Benz Stadium and Atlanta celebrity chef KEVIN RATHBUN will headline the TASTE OF THE NFL: PARTY WITH A PURPOSE at Cobb Galleria Centre.

The game is Feb. 3; Taste is Feb. 2. Each NFL team city will fly in its own celebrity chef to cook a signature dish at one of 35-plus food stations.

This is your chance to eat, drink and mingle with NFL greats and other celebrities. 

Tickets are $700 each, but that’s cheaper than a seat to the game. …

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Anne Quatrano

Big brunch news comes from James Beard Award-winning chef ANNE QUATRANO (Bacchanalia, Star Provisions, Floataway Café, W.H. Stiles Fish Camp) plans two locations of her latest concept, PANCAKE SOCIAL. Expect eight kinds of pancakes, from savory to sweet, along with other all-day breakfast noshes. A Ponce City Market location will open in the first part of the year. Look for the second late next fall in Fayetteville’s forthcoming Pinewood Forest development. …

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Ponce de Leon Avenue continues its gentrification with two new offerings — SOUTHERN BELLE and GEORGIA BOY — from former Gunshow executive chef JOEY WARD. The two will co-exist at the same address. Belle will offer small plates; Boy will be a 16-seat communal counter with a multicourse tasting menu. Expect a spring bloom. …

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MAMOUN’S FALAFEL dates to 1970s Greenwich Village and calls itself the “oldest falafel restaurant in New York City.” It plans six Atlanta locations, with the first opening in the West Midtown Center development on Northside Drive. Expect house-baked pitas, shawarma, hummus and, of course, falafel.

Toast

The restaurant graveyard has been busy the past few months. Virginia-Highland’s GOIN’ COASTAL closed after eight years, and downtown’s LEGAL SEAFOOD pulled up anchor after more than a decade, citing expiration of its Hilton Garden Inn lease. … THUMBS UP DINER, the breakfast-all-day icon, has closed its Decatur location, citing untenable rent increases. Thumbs Up’s popular “Skillet Heap” and multigrain biscuits are still available at locations in Douglasville, East Point, Edgewood Avenue in the Old Fourth Ward, Marietta Street in West Midtown and Roswell. … After 30 years of meat-and-three, OUR WAY CAFÉ closed its Avondale Estates location. Owner EVA-MARIE ROSWALL decided to retire. …

The most notable closing is ACHIE’S, The Battery Atlanta spot from decorated chef HUGH ACHESON, which lasted less than 10 months. Acheson, who reached celebrity status on the TV reality show “Top Chef Masters,” still runs EMPIRE STATE SOUTH and two SPILLER PARK COFFEE locations, plus a pair of eateries in Athens.

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Food for Thought, Encore Atlanta’s bimonthly dining column, keeps you up to date on openings, closings and what chefs are up to in one of three categories — well done (reasons for praise), simmering (what’s in the works) and toast (what’s closed, etc.). Suggestions: Email kathy@encoreatlanta.com.

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MOLLY B’S TO OPEN AT MERCEDES-BENZ STADIUM

Restaurant Club Named for Owner Arthur Blank’s Mother, Molly Blank

Features Rotating Menu Evoking a Southern Inspired Chop House

Mercedes-Benz Stadium will feature a new and unique destination restaurant and private club, Molly B’s, named in honor of owner Arthur Blank’s mother, Molly Blank.  As part of the expansive food and beverage program being featured inside Mercedes-Benz Stadium, Molly B’s was created in partnership with Concentrics Restaurants and boasts an impressive menu developed by Michael Bertozzi, executive chef for Atlanta’s TWO urban licks.  Molly B’s, opening on August 26, will be located on the 100-level concourse and has a separate entry by the main entrance of the stadium.

The idea to name the restaurant Molly B’s came from Rich McKay, AMB Sports and Entertainment President.  McKay,  who knew Molly well, presented the name, along with renderings, to Arthur Blank as a surprise in a management meeting last summer to honor her and continue Molly’s legacy. 

 “My mother was a strong, values-driven woman who was an incredible influence on my life and many others,” says Arthur Blank, owner and chairman, AMB Group. “Her love of community, charity, family and life has inspired me to continue those values throughout everything I do.  Mercedes-Benz Stadium is just another way we are bringing people together as a community to enjoy as family and friends.  My mother’s legacy phrase, ‘You only pass through once, make it count!’ was something she lived by and I’m so proud to have her as part of this new legacy in Atlanta”.

Molly B’s dining concept comes from the creators of Atlanta’s award winning ONE. midtown kitchen, TWO urban licks, and dozens of critically acclaimed restaurants across the country. "It’s not very often you get the opportunity to create a full-service, destination restaurant and private club within a football stadium, especially a new NFL stadium. It’s an exciting first for us,” says Bob Amick, owner and founder of Concentrics Restaurants.  "The challenge was to create a dynamic concept that is special in what is already a special place that appeals to everyone. Modern and with clean lines, it’s an all open-air restaurant that plays to the feel of the open-air stadium and has great views of both Downtown and field. We cannot wait for fans to experience it.” 

A chef driven, full-service restaurant meets private club, Molly B’s takes a modern spin on a southern inspired chophouse.  With ample seating overlooking the field, the unique concept not only offers an exclusive food and beverage experience for club members attending Atlanta Falcons games and Atlanta United matches, but it also welcomes fans when the game is underway with an eclectic a la carte menu filled with sharable plates, sandwiches, entrees and more.   In addition to friendly, detailed service and mouthwatering dining options, a large, four-sided bar takes center stage at Molly B’s. Those looking to imbibe will find a urated beverage program with an array of craft beers, a tailored wine list and classic and specialty cocktails.  Additionally, Molly B’s will stay open for two hours after each game and will serve lunch on non-event days to patrons visiting downtown Atlanta.  The space is also available for private events of all sizes.  

When the Falcons play, the all-inclusive member experience offers impressive items ideal for the table such as buttermilk fried chicken, southern smoked brisket, baby back ribs along with a variety of sides including six-cheese macaroni and cheese, hand cut fries and roasted asparagus topped with lemon hollandaise and king crab. True to chophouse form, action stations featuring freshly carved, slow roasted bone-in prime rib, chopped salad, a raw bar, and a make-your-own sundae bar provide for an interactive opportunity in the restaurant’s casual and open atmosphere overlooking the field.  For Atlanta United matches, members can indulge in sharable plates in addition to a dynamic entrees like made-to-order, smoked whole hog tacos, lobster rolls, BBQ brisket and prime rib sandwiches, crispy shrimp and chips po boy and much more.   When it’s game time and during daily lunch service on non-event days, fans and visitors alike can take advantage of Molly B’s favorites made fresh, seasonal ingredients that are featured on and inspired by both member menus.

"The menu we created for Molly B's is rooted in Atlanta’s diverse culinary scene and was crafted to bring a sense of comfort to the guests. It draws from the local traditions and ingredients to deliver some of the best the region has to offer. We will also be working with local purveyors and farmers to bring a dining experience that will be unparalleled by any other stadium in the league,” says Michael Bertozzi, director of culinary of Concentrics Restaurants and executive chef of TWO urban licks. For the full menu and to learn more information on the limited membership program, please go here.

 Molly B’s is just one component of the many food and beverage offerings at Mercedes-Benz Stadium. The Fan First Menu offers an elusive combination of great variety, outstanding quality, and friendly prices to deliver unmatched value for fans.  From fan favorite offerings priced at $2 and $3 that will allow a family of four to eat and drink for under $30, to the best of Atlanta lineup of restaurant partners selected by fans, Mercedes-Benz Stadium will have a full slate of food and beverage options on every level of the stadium.

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