BALMAIN Pre-Fall 2021 Menswear

Exaggerated shoulders, pattern on pattern and pastels make up the Balmain man for pre-Fall 2021. Creative director, Olivier Rousteing, who’s been with the brand for 10 years next February, set aside his maximalist ways and gave us clean lines, no bling. But as always, Olivier Rousteing gave us fashion! And we love and thank him for that! And for the tennis enthusiast, there’s something for you as well.

“It’s a collection for morning-to-evening, and it’s a collection that is about taking care of yourself,” said the 35 year old Olivier Rousteing. “But when I say taking care of yourself I mean by going outside your home and doing what you enjoy. We’ve all been taking care of ourselves by staying in our homes, staying in pajamas, robes, hoodies. But maybe let’s think about the idea of going out, seeing people we haven’t seen for months, and taking pleasure in seeing and being seen.” He went on to say, “There is a lot of nostalgia in the collection,” Rousteing observed: “I tried to go back to when there was more happiness in fashion.”

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DIOR MEN Pre-Fall 2021 Menswear

This time last December, Kim Jones’s many fans across the fashion and art worlds were gathered in Miami Beach. His Dior Men show was a Basel-adjacent affair, complete with a walk-through of the new Rubell Museum. The pandemic scuttled plans to stage a show in Beijing for Jones’s latest outing—there was a livestreamed video and a screening party at the city’s Phoenix International Media Center instead—but in every other way, this collection is just as ambitious as that pre-COVID occasion.

The coronavirus crisis shuttered businesses across New York City this year. Still, even on the quietest days of the summer, there was a line outside SoHo’s Dior Men store. Jones has a phenomenon on his hands; there are similar lines in Los Angeles and other cities. “People like to feel part of a gang, only now because of social media it is much more global,” he said on a Zoom call. These off-season collections feed that global excitement.

Last year, Jones revealed a colorful collaboration with Shawn Stussy, the streetwear OG. This season, he tapped Kenny Scharf, an American artist who emerged from the 1980s East Village scene, making street art alongside his friends Keith Haring and Jean-Michel Basquiat. “The fun and the energy of that time—you see young kids being excited by Kenny Scharf’s work. It’s speaking across generations,” Jones said.

Scharf’s canvases can now fetch up to six figures, but he still has street cred: Via “Karbombz,” a public art project, he’s tagged upwards of 300 cars with his imaginary creatures—all for free. Together, the designer and the artist selected contemporary pieces and older ones to reproduce, including When the Worlds Collide, a 1984 canvas in the Whitney’s permanent collection. Scharf also designed 12 Chinese zodiac signs for the show’s knits and underpinnings, and, of course, he had free rein to reinterpret the Dior logo.

“I just wanted it to be a very full-on version, using specific techniques to recreate his work in really beautiful ways, to make it even more Pop,” Jones said. In some cases, the Dior ateliers were joined by Chinese artisans who rendered Scharf paintings in delicate seed embroideries. Silhouette-wise, Jones’s instinct was to soften his distinctive tailoring and give it a more lounge-y attitude. Jackets are belted like robes and pants are easy; some of the models wear Oblique-patterned slippers. We are still locked in, after all.

Answering needs or triggering desire, Jones erases distinctions between high and low, and his roving eye sees heroes in all places. This season he invited the DJ Honey Dijon to the party, and she enlisted Lady Miss Kier to record a Dior-ified rendition of Deee-Lite’s megahit “What Is Love?” The intergalactic vibe of the runway video was partly inspired by Jones’s interest in The Mandalorian. “I thought it was fun to bring all these things together in a time when it’s quite negative, and to have a bit of optimism,” he said.

Scharf, whose first show was at New York’s Fiorucci boutique in 1979 and earliest fashion hookup was with Stephen Sprouse, is the perfect Jones collaborator. His work gleefully obliterates boundaries too. “I’m one of the inventors of all that,” Scharf said on a call from his L.A. studio. He raved about Jones: “He’s a listener, he’s a learner, and that shows. He went really deep into what I’m doing.” Those lines outside Greene Street seem only bound to grow.

Source: VogueRunway/Nicole Phelps

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Alcantara Unveils Special Capsule Collection with Lanvin en Bleu and the Lanvin Collection in Tokyo

Alcantara recently introduced a fall/winter capsule collection in Japan in collaboration with Lanvin and its licensed Lanvin en Bleu and Lanvin Collection brands. The new fashions include 30 different looks featuring "Made in Italy" luxury material from Alcantara. Yukihiro Takahashi, a highly regarded Japanese musician, and Tomoki Sukezane, a Japanese fashion editor and stylist, played roles in the collection's runway-show introduction.

Alcantara, Italian luxury brand and recognized around the world as the Italianness Ambassador, has released a total of 30 looks which include the signature of the 2 different outerwear, and 28 looks of both men’s and ladies. The values of tailor-made and craftmanship were applied to the exclusive new collection designed by Lanvin with a mix of sensoriality, beauty and functionality that celebrate this unique marriage.

The Italian Company creates for this collaboration an exclusive metallic printed material with the Lanvin’s brand logo and beautiful dyed off-white material used for a frilled dress.

Over coats, suits and pants play the central role of this incredible capsule collection.

“We are very pleased to collaborate with Lanvin for the realization of the Autumn/Winter 2020/21 capsule collection. An extraordinary opportunity to celebrate the versatility of Alcantara, able to combine tradition and innovation with the Italian lifestyle. The values of the tailor-made and of the global lifestyle, which have always inspired the strategy of our brand, emerge even more in the garments of the collection. However, this is only a step, Alcantara never stops to attract the world.” commented Andrea Boragno, Chairman and CEO of Alcantara S.p.A.

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A Shortcut to the Ideal Pair of Shoes

Looking cool, feeling comfortable, being able to successfully participate in your chosen activity and keeping your feet protected are all trademarks of a successful shoe purchase. However, many people tend to prioritize how a shoe looks over its function, which is a huge mistake.

Pick for Purpose

Buying the right shoe for the intended activity is a big deal, because applying them for the wrong purpose can lead to very premature wear and tear. The main reason for buying the wrong shoes generally comes down to misinformation. Spend wisely and let your shoes last by buying the right shoe for what you want to do – here is how to choose.

How Do I Know It ‘s Right?

Whether you are attending a formal function or trekking through the mountains, each activity will come with its own unique footwear requirements. Value for money is key when selecting a pair of shoes and goes hand-in-hand with durability. If you wear out your shoes long before they would have worn out, if they were used correctly, you are wasting money. Nike Shoes don’t have to be expensive to give you value for money – as long as they serve your needs for the duration of time that you need them for (and a bit more, if you’re lucky) you got yourself a good deal.

Where Are You Going?

The terrain in which you are active is highly likely to have an impact on the wear and tear of your shoes. A standard city environment is less likely to wear out your shoes than regular hiking is, so make sure you adapt your footwear to your environment. If you are drawn to activities that keep you on your feet for a long time, you will have to adapt your footwear to that activity, or risk fatigued, swollen, painful feet.

Try, Try and Try Again

Trying on the shoe that you like is just the beginning. Done right, a pair of shoes can become a long-term relationship, and you do not want the time you spend on your feet to be uncomfortable. If you wear purpose-built footwear, you will have a much easier time – solid, heavy hiking boots with plenty of cushioning will serve you well out on the trail, but are impractical in an urban environment. Similarly, thin-soled, light sneakers are great for a general stomp about town but will leave you in the lurch when you attempt more physically demanding activities.

A quick hack to boost the comfort level of any pair of shoes, is to add a removable insole to the shoe. Not only does it create another softening layer, but it also compensates for any firmness that might be lost over time.

The bottom line? Check the manufacturing quality and sturdiness of any pair of shoes that interest you and weigh up the price according to your expectations of the shoes. If you believe you can get mileage you need at a price that you are happy with, you will be in the perfect purchase scenario!

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UNIQLO Debuts at China Import Expo with The Art and Science of LifeWear

Japanese global apparel retailer UNIQLO confirmed that it has successfully concluded its debut at the annual China International Import Expo (CIIE) held this year from November 5 to 10 in Shanghai. The event also marked the first time UNIQLO hosted The Art and Science of LifeWear, a LifeWear global brand exhibition, in China, following similar events in New York, Paris and London in previous years.

At 1,500 square meters The Art and Science of LifeWear was the largest exhibition space in the customer goods category of the CIIE. The space, known as "Museum of Tomorrow," showcased the innovation and technologies behind iconic UNIQLO products, the craftsmanship that goes into creating high-quality clothing, sustainability initiatives, as well as the first public exhibition of the upcoming +J collection in collaboration with legendary designer Jil Sander.

Additionally, with the upcoming of Double 11, or Singles' Day Sales, the world's largest online shopping festival, UNIQLO demonstrated its seamless online-offline integration by inviting customers to visit the Museum of Tomorrow through a simultaneous online exhibition on the UNIQLO Digital Flagship Store.

Jalin Wu, Group Executive Officer of Fast Retailing and Chief Marketing Officer of UNIQLO Greater China, said, "UNIQLO is pleased to have introduced The Art and Science of LifeWear and its product and services innovations to consumers in China, and around the world, through the CIIE platform. We hope that with our participation we could inspire a better future life, and new lifestyles, for people everywhere. UNIQLO is full of confidence about the Chinese market and consumers going forward, and the company plans to continue to deepen its roots into low tiered cities in China."

The Museum of Tomorrow attracted more than 300 domestic and foreign media, as well as more than 200,000 visitors to experience the exhibition and understand the technology behind the products.

One media representative said that for the first time he saw the technology behind Ultra Light Down, and through technology experiments featuring AIRism and HEATTECH, he realized how many innovations of science and design actually go into a piece of clothing that allows people to switch freely between different life scenarios more efficiently, comfortably, and stylishly.

"UNIQLO's booth was very big and impressive. It is hard to believe that UNIQLO staged such an amazing performance for its first time at the exhibition. Whether it was the giant Ultra Light Down jackets or various lab devices, you could feel the brand's dedication and attention to details," said Yang from Shanghai.

Museum of Tomorrow Inspired Future Lifestyles with Clothing of Tomorrow

CIIE also saw the world first public exhibition of the +J Fall/Winter 2020 collection, which will be available in UNIQLO stores and online starting November 13. The collection marks the return of UNIQLO's collaboration with Ms. Sander, who brings her signature modern style to this exceptional line for women and men.

Greeting visitors to the Museum of Tomorrow were Giant versions of Ultra Light Down jackets hanging in the air. The actual Ultra Light Down jackets sold at UNIQLO feature a fabric made of a durable and light ultrafine fiber that is treated to eliminate down packs, combining warmth and lightness while being compact enough to easily fold into an accompanying pouch.

Showcasing UNIQLO innerwear offerings, the Museum of Tomorrow featured three experiments to demonstrate how the various functions of AIRism regulate the air under clothing, releasing heat and humidity to provide a comfy dryness. Another station highlighted the bio-warming technology found in HEATTECH innerwear, loved around the world since its inception in 2003.

Publicly displaying a knitting machine using WHOLEGARMENT technology in China for the first time, UNIQLO showed the art of the revolutionary 3D seamless knitting, which fits the body perfectly and brings a new wearing experience of stylish comfort. The space also featured a BLOCKTECH lab, where experiments clearly demonstrated the high-tech utility outer's windproof, waterproof and breathable functions, which provide comfortable protection against the cold.

UTs (UNIQLO T-shirts), which offer an array of authentic pop culture and art graphics from around the world, allowing the wearer to express their individuality, were also exhibited at the Museum of Tomorrow as a focal point of the world's cultural and creative influences. At the UNIQLO Masterpiece Studio display, UNIQLO highlighted the quality created through persistent craftmanship, refined cutting and fabric selection, which defines the value of clothing.

In addition, UNIQLO's global sustainable development and innovation efforts, which use the power of clothing to help protect the earth and care for people and communities, were also on display. CIIE also marked the world debut of BlueCycle, a rebranding of innovative UNIQLO water-saving technology that allows for significantly less water use in the jeans production process. This technology from the company's Jeans Innovation Center, established in Los Angeles in 2016, was part of a wider exhibit highlighting the history and evolution of UNIQLO jeans and the six types of UNIQLO jeans fabrics.

LifeWear Exhibition Beyond CIIE

Fast Retailing is committed to becoming the world's number one Digital Retail Consumer company. With this in mind, UNIQLO continues to turn information into products by understanding its customer needs and integrating online and offline functions to provide customers a seamless shopping experiences. During CIIE customers were also invited to visit the Museum of Tomorrow through a simultaneous online exhibition in the cloud through the UNIQLO Digital Flagship Store and get an up-close virtual experience of The Art and Science of LifeWear through the 10 innovative exhibition areas.

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DESIGNER JOHNATHAN HAYDEN RISING THROUGH THE RANKS IN FASHION

Fashion designer, Johnathan Hayden, The Art Institute of Dallas 2012 Alumnus, is being recognized for his work - a new face for the fashion industry as it confronts diversity and inclusion to promote genuine talent.

As the fashion and retail landscape dramatically shifts across America, the opportunity for emerging brands has attracted attention to his eponymous womenswear brand. Despite Covid-19, he has quickly shifted to producing masks for the NYC community in partnerships with local nonprofits. His “Made in America” approach to ethical manufacturing was awarded a small grant from NYC non-profit, Harlem’s Fashion Row’s ICON 360 initiative (a recipient of $1 million from The Council of Fashion Designers of America x VOGUE’s “Common Thread” $5 million fund), 1 of 27 designers of color allocated funding. He credits The Art Institute for his equipping him with a strong technical design and production background developing quality design as the industry confronts demands for social consciousness amongst global environmental and racial equity concerns. Featured this month in Vogue Mexico’s editorial on young design talent, he speaks to the rigor and patience it has taken to make is stake in the international fashion industry:

"I may have been naïve to leap into the title of Fashion Designer, but like I said earlier, I was raised with a strict sense of duty to a greater whole—building community. So when I ‘found’ my brand, that sounds like it was an accident, something to happen by chance. But the truth is I have forged this brand. When asked, I point to everything around me in my studio and say, “This wasn’t built because of a ‘yes’. Everything you see exists despite every exclusionary ‘no’,” for whatever reason. I don’t know what the future looks like, but I know what I am trying to work towards. I’d like to see fashion truly exercise inclusion to reimagine what that means. To me, that’s listening to more voices and then, as a fashion designer, using my brand as a lens for that idealism to aspire towards."

Johnathan Hayden is a luxury designer label founded in 2016 having debuted its first collection at Rakuten Fashion Week TOKYO in October 2019. The New-York based hybrid-designer unites his interest in technology and fashion to create luxury clothing with adaptive details. Hayden has worked with nonprofit organizations like non-profit Open Style Lab at Parsons specializing in inclusive clothing for people with disabilities and continues to explore meaningful applications of technology in design showcased at The Metropolitan Museum of Art.

AiLive host, E. Vincent Martinez, speaks with Johnathan Hayden, a NYC fashion designer, creative consultant, textbook illustrator and Art Institute of Dallas graduate.

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