Giambattista Valli Fall 2020 Couture

“If they’re coming to me, they want the best of me.” That was Giambattista Valli earlier today on a Zoom call from Paris, hours before his fall 2020 haute couture collection would be unveiled via a video starring Joan Smalls. True to his word, the new collection is signature Giamba. There’s no COVID-time second-guessing of his instincts—no economizing on silk tulle or scaling back of faille and taffeta bows. If anything, the tulle tiers are frothier, the bows more voluminous. A face-covering mask could’ve been a nod to the pandemic, but in black chiffon it was more decorative than functional.

Smalls models the collection’s 18 looks in the video, and in the split-screen next to her, scenes of Paris in winter are revealed. “With or without us, nature was going on,” Valli remarked of the months we spent under lockdown. “In the horror of what we’re passing through, there was beauty blooming at the same time.” On day one of this digital couture week, nature is a recurring motif, as is the human desire to get out into it. It may be irrational exuberance on our parts, but it is exuberance which is better than its opposite, and after months of restrictions, this kind of pleasure seeking is hardly a surprise. Even before the collection made its online debut, Valli had two virtual orders. “Happy times are never going to be démodé,” he said. He also has the advantage of a very young clientele; “they’re used to buying on the web,” he added.

As his bride (see gallery above), Smalls wears a strapless dress of ruched ivory tulle decorated with a pair of black bows that match the one that accents her cathedral-length veil of polka-dot embroidered tulle. Valli was eager to highlight the couture techniques of each piece—from a sequin minidress and its many-layered point d’esprit cape to a white ballgown decorated neckline to hem in lipstick-red feathers—and he proudly announced he was able to retain all of his employees during the shutdown and the reopening that’s followed. Amidst this ongoing crisis, that really is cause for happy times.

Source: Vogue

FASHIONADO

MARIA ARISTIDOU COUTURE SS 2020: PARIS FASHION WEEK

Maria Aristidou SS2020 knit couture collection is, in every respect, inspired by the Art Deco movement of the early 20th century. When the need for change following World War One spread in all aspects of art and design from buildings to furniture, jewelry, fashion and every day objects. 

Similar to the Art Deco movement the collection combines bold styles with fine craftsmanship and rich materials representing luxury, glamour and exuberance. 

Maria Aristidou’s BOLD collection, guided by the essence of shape to form clean, geometric designs with vivid colors and vibrant patterns using knit fabrics, represents a challenge for both men and women to deviate from the norm, be BOLD and dive into the fascinating abyss of Art Deco inspired shapes and colors of knit couture.

The magic of knitwear inspired the designer to first explore and then create, using luxurious threads, elaborate techniques, and various knit patterns. The craftsmanship of detailed hand embroideries adds to the uniqueness of Maria Aristidou's fabric collections for the couture evening and accessories.

The process of each collection production starts from the fabric design. Yarns such as wool, viscose, lurex, cotton, silk and velvet (depending on the season) are ordered from France and Italy.  Then, a series of patterns are designed in great detail followed by a series of tests to decide on the yarns to be used for each pattern, how thick or thin the fabric will be, color sampling combinations, hand-embroidery design testing, quality and durability checks etc.  The whole design and production processes take place in Cyprus.

FASHIONADO

ZIAD NAKAD FW 20 COUTURE

TESSERA COLLECTION COUTURE FALL WINTER 2019 - 2020 PARIS FASHION WEEK

Inspired by the ancient mosaic, Ziad Nakad's Fall Winter 2019 2020 couture collection is an ode to architecture and geometry. Marked waists , oversize and asymmetrical sleeves are true technical features while giving an impression of lightness in resolutely feminine outfits. Silhouettes with embroidery embellishments like "tessellas" and "tesserulas" reveal an aerial mosaic. It is this alliteration assemblage that inspired the designer for the collection’s title.

A colorful collection, from blue to red, from gold to silver with black tips. Always concerned regarding high quality, Ziad Nakad mingles tulles and chiffons, lace and velvet, giving his creations an architectural and modern dimension, always reminding us his mastery in cuts and volumes.

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