Malan Breton Fall 2019 Collection

Opening the doors to The House Of Malan Breton is like stepping through into an immersive theatrical fashion experience . Breton revolutionizes silhouettes in ways that express modern techniques with couture techniques of centuries past. Taiwanese embroidery techniques are deeply sewn and rooted into the seams as well his soul. Gowns are intensely hand-sequined in rich reds and bold burgundies. Leather adorned in Swarovski crystals and Japanese fresh water dying techniques are a few of the masterful formulas used to create the luxuries of this collection. The metaphor of the snake slithers through the collection as a symbol of rebirth, transformation, immortality, and healing.

Malan Breton on his inspiration…. “What if we could know the stories of the mad man, the other side of life as told by victims, what if we could know the pain, the suffering, the loss and abandon that bring the antagonists to madness? What if in this exploration of the psyche we learn that the evil, the unkind, were once pure? What if we knew their joys and could save them before their last moments. This season I try to tell a story of a Norma Desmond type character, before she loses her stability. Before she throws away her freedoms for unrequited love. Before the world knows her as a diva and a has been. A murderess. What if After Death we see the hearts of those who society drove to madness, before their utter demise. That is my vision this season for my AW19 collection.”

Malan Breton’s AW19 collection is a blissful reminder of better days – and the promise of the return of luxury.

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Acne Studios FALL 2019 MENSWEAR

When it comes to his part in the fashion playground, Jonny Johansson said this afternoon that he always feels like a double outsider: “Because we’re from Stockholm, which is from way outside [the fashion world], plus I’m from the very north of Sweden, which is way outside even Stockholm.” For this Acne Studios collection, Johansson harnessed the advantage that provenance from the periphery affords: fresh perspective.

Here, he worked to mash together many disparate elements into a newly coalesced menswear proposition. Farming has been a pretty rare reference at the shows, but it was present today in tractor-soled, half-length rubber work boots reimagined in leather; a flecked pale work jacket with a strapped satin utility pouch; and cow-print trenchcoats. He touched on late-mid-century bohemia and counterculture in the psychedelic swirl vests; superlong snoods with even longer fringing; and the colored snake-effect trenches, shirt-jackets, and moto pants. Shirts worn above high-waisted leather pants with carpenter’s pockets were semi-sheer and patterned with distressed chevrons in Lurex that Johansson had drawn from vintage soccer jerseys; these sometimes resembled Arsenal’s immortal “bruised banana” stripe of the 1990s.

There was stretch suiting in textured jersey, some nice long coats in soft velvet in hard colors (the pale, pale pistachio looked especially strong), fitted pants and tightly darted shorts in top-to-toe finely lined brown with lavender topstitching, and super-oversize work shirting. Pants featured vibrantly lined pockets that could be worn open on the hip, as they were in this show, but were also built to function when fastened at one side by hook and eye to the waistband. Accessories included rugged fanny packs and necklaces hanging with hollowed silver globes, partially sliced, whose insides were colored to complement the garments they were worn with. Whatever he says, Johansson these days is as inside as it gets in fashion; that outsider eye, however, remains.

Source: Luke Leitch/VogueRunway

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