Erdem Spring 2023 Menswear

Erdem Spring 2023 Menswear

Beautiful young men standing in an English country garden, against beds of succulent purple and yellow flag irises. Erdem Moralioglu, with his cinematic eye for glancingly historical biographical references, almost conjured a reincarnation of an everyday scene from the country life of the painter and plantsman Cedric Morris for his summer menswear collection.

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J&M Davidson SS18

Photography by Tim Elkaïm

Photography by Tim Elkaïm

For Spring Summer 2018, J&M Davidson takes us on a colorful journey via Mexico City and Istanbul, with a vibrantly-hued palette and bold silhouettes inspired by the cities’ striking landscapes.

The collection transports one effortlessly from city to city, with designs that capture the bohemian spirit of an urban nomad. Subtle details, tactile textures and bold proportions lend the collection a spirited, optimistic attitude.

Vividly saturated colors lifted from the canvases of Diego Rivera, Henri Mattisse and David Hockney embolden romantic peasant blouses and maxi dresses in fuchsia pink and apple green, evoking Mexico’s candy-striped buildings. The yellow floral silk brocade Anatolia coat, inspired by those traditionally worn during the Ottoman Empire, stands out alongside the masculine-meets-feminine twill Piper jacket, natural hemp Hobie duster coat and striped Anatolia coat in ecru and navy blue linen. Paired with the white cotton organdie Rose dress and easy, airy Ariel top, the collection captures the cool blend of androgyny and nonchalant femininity synonymous with J&M Davidson.

The shapes and colors of the Spring Summer 2018 handbag styles reflect the relaxed mood of a modern day vagabond – uncomplicated silhouettes in rich navy, sahara beige and caramel, as well as Mediterranean camellia pink and China blue. The new silhouettes include the Axel – an effortless, everyday suede tote that’s practical and unfussy, with a handy pocket hidden at its base: ideal for a woman on the move. For evening, the Eleonor handbag is something a little more structured while still insouciant – the brass hardware, oblong shape and sturdy frame allow it to make a quiet statement. Smaller but no less smart, the Aime is a vintage-inspired top-handle bag brought up to date with a discreet row of studs – it’s elegant yet carefree, much like the J&M Davidson woman.

With its exotic color palette, effortless charm and bohemian flare, the Spring Summer 2018 collection conjures up a sense of urban escapism.

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Haider Ackermann Fall 2015 Menswear

Haider Ackermann presented a show befitting an avant- garde collection. Rather than "runway" the models made their entrance to a standing-room filled space and then hung out in another room where guests could get up close to the models. I like the balance of scale and proportion within the looks, from fitted to over-sized. But what interests me most of the rocker meets bohemian-ish collection is Ackermann's delicious use of jewel toned fabrics. So rich.

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