John Elliot FW20 Menswear

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For his Fall/Winter 2020 menswear collection entitled “A Wonderful Yesterday” John Elliott
expands his aesthetic further as he explores a way of life that is different to how we live now, and then makes it relevant to today.

The exploration and introduction of advanced developments in fabric treatments and applications is key - his high-tech leather is stand-out here.

The collection and its fabrications were inspired by a family cabin hidden in California’s northern Sierra Mountains and results in a collection made up of modular pieces spurred by the past and present of this remote spot.

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Off-White FW20 Menswear

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FW20 Menswear OFFWHITE_SHOW

For his Fall/Winter 2020 menswear collection, titled “Tornado Warning,” Virgil Abloh significantly deepens— and anchors—Off-White’s established identity.

Abloh’s sensibilities continue to pull away from the term “streetwear,” but he is not discarding his hand of in-the-know familiarity. In this lineup, the designer pushes the idea wheel forward, layering in singular silhouettes, innovative suiting, and dressier formal and outerwear.


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Off-White FW20 Womenswear

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For his FW 2020 womenswear collection, Virgil Abloh further develops Off-White’s codes with a sense of contemporary realism, beyond the hems of the fashion industry. He looks at the world at large.

To set the pace, Abloh ventured back to the nineties—a definitive sartorial era—by compiling references from then-ubiquitous minimal slip-dresses and bra tops to Hype Williams’s 1998 directorial film debut, Belly. Williams is widely known for his innovative and Zeitgeist-capturing music videos, which blend technology, fashion, and uncompromising individuality; in Belly, keystone late nineties-era hallmarks like red leather Ecko puffers and original-design all-white Range Rovers take centerstage. The view towards a more recent nostalgia hints at a collective comfort regarding what has passed—especially when the future feels so unpredictable.

From there, Abloh used the nineties as a springboard for helping to define what OffWhite will be in the 2020’s. His approach is one of calculated miscellany, mirroring the moment and pushing that moment forward.

Bookending his Fall runway were hybridized, high-volume dresses with Arc’teryx parkas. Myriad trenches came paired with trousers, which were generally long and lean, with breaks at the ankle. Holstein blot motifs walked alongside circular cutout separates; heavy chain elements were worked in as jewelry or dress adornments. Extra-tailored leather blazers featured spray-painted overlays. Houndstooth patterns morphed into psychedelic pools on top-coats and skirts. An angular tulle wing-and-half-dress was worn over camouflage cargo pants. A collaboration with MGM studios led to a Blue Velvet-inspired capsule: a structured, off-the-shoulder dress in the fabric the movie is named for, along with mirror-ball metallic garments that channel Dorothy Vallens’s glitzier ensembles.

Akin to what’s happening in culture greater, we are now living in an era of openness, constant newness, hyper-information, and the pressing need for adaptability: “Reality,” says Abloh, “is the starting point of my type of storytelling.”

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Viktor & Rolf FW20 Mister Mister Collection

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With Mister Mister, Viktor & Rolf introduce a new creative expression to their brand universe. Conveying the designer’s complementary bond, Viktor & Rolf Mister Mister is an extension of fashion artists' Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren's personal style - an intimate reflection, understated yet cleverly detailed with a myriad of textured patchworks and prints.

The collection embraces the modern dandy as a form of self-expression. Through a mingling of impeccable tailoring with casual wear, Viktor & Rolf Mister Mister crafts a playful take on formal wear. Homage is paid to an underlying sense of humor and irony through quirky conversational prints inspired by dandy narratives. Various top hats, either blown up or in micro patterns, executed in jacquards and trompe-l’oeil techniques, create a visual background that inspire dialogue amongst themselves.

Classic suits are crafted in playful patterns and casual garments feature formal detailing. Prints and patchworks give way to standout details, with several patchworks throughout the collection crafted with leftover materials hinting to the brand's recent Haute Couture collections that have placed an emphasis on the designer's notion of conscious design. This season’s vibrant color pallet is infused with classic masculine tones, highlighting the fresh accent ‘Winter blue’. Classic dandy pieces are defined by unexpected twists in detail such as tuxedo jackets that are finished with raw edges or men’s shirts that are adorned with asymmetric patchworks. The collection consists of around 130 pieces - from shirts and knits to formalwear, outerwear and accessories.

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COS FW20 Menswear

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COS FW20 Menswear fashionado
COS FW20 Menswear fashionado

The COS Autumn/Winter 2020 collection rethinks the origin of materials.

The season presents an exploration of responsibly sourced fabrics, paying special attention to reusing, repurposing and recycling. Architecture and perspective continue to inspire clean, modernist lines in menswear, where traditional and contemporary values are applied to the classic white shirt.

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Marni FW20 Menswear

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A repertoire of clothing archetypes: objects treated as persistences memory, assembled together as beautiful leftovers to create unsettling hybrids. Stop, cut, rewind, paste. Bisected coats. Antithetical frocks. Juxtaposed jackets. Fragmented outerwear. Shrunken sweaters and shirts. Dilated trousers. Right and left don't match. Front and back even less, not to mention top and bottom.

Everything is too wide, or too narrow, or too long. Time has left its evident and palpable mark on everything: abrasions; cuts; fading; missing parts. Hypnotically patterned or monochromatic uniforms land underneath everything. Distorted sneakers and boots complete. Flashbacks and fast forwards of styles and movements are united in a choral flow of gestures by the choreography of Michele Rizzo.

Marni

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Jil Sander FW20 Menswear

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Craftsmanship is an exchange between cultures, across space and time; with the knowledge of materials and processes merging heritage, individual sensitivities and the new.

An awareness and a freedom are at the center of Lucie and Luke Meier’s practice at Jil Sander since they began. It is the basis of their own redefinition of the hand-made. The sartorial and the ancestral coexist. The austerity that runs through the collection is constantly charged and undone.

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