Ralph Lauren Will Contribute $10 Million to Coronavirus Relief Efforts

The fashion industry has felt the impact of the coronavirus pandemic at every level of its business, with charitable and legislative plans to support brands, retailers, designers, and employees that have been affected by the crisis emerging slowly but surely over the past two weeks.

Thursday, Ralph Lauren announced a major donation that provides serious support to his employees as well as global relief efforts. His Ralph Lauren Corporate Foundation set out a plan to give $10 million to four charitable organizations. Conglomerates like Kering and LVMH have donated millions of euros in cash in addition to producing masks and other equipment for European health authorities. Lauren’s, meanwhile, is the largest amount given in a single donation of any fashion company so far, and the kind of meaningful, major statement that many in the American fashion community have been waiting for.

“At the heart of our company, there has always been a spirit of togetherness that inspires our creativity, our confidence, and most importantly our support for one another,” Lauren, who serves as executive chairman and chief creative officer, said in a press release. “In the past weeks and months, that spirit has never wavered.”

In the release, Lauren outlined a plan to split the money between four major organizations, with the goal of providing relief to his own employees, support for global efforts to fight the spread of coronavirus, and financial assistance to American designers. The first organization is the Emergency Assistance Foundation, an American nonprofit that creates employee relief funds, and which will provide grants to help employees of Lauren’s corporation to assist with medical care or the care of family members. Sums will also go to the World Health Organization’s COVID-19 Solidarity Response Fund, and Ralph Lauren’s Pink Pony Fun for cancer research.

Lastly, $1 million dollars of the donation will go to A Common Thread, the initiative launched earlier this week by the Council of Fashion Designers of America and Vogue to support designers and those behind-the-scenes who have been impacted by the coronavirus.

The company’s release added that it is also exploring the production of medical-grade masks, gowns, and other personal protective equipment. As GQ reported yesterday, fashion designers’ production of much-needed masks has been riddled with roadblocks and red tape. Leadership from an organization of Lauren’s size could make the manufacturing of those supplies far more effective.

Source: GQ

FASHIONADO

Virgil Abloh Shares Pics of His LV² Collaboration With Nigo

When Virgil Abloh announced his Louis Vuitton collaboration with Nigo in December, he gave props to the Japanese streetwear pioneer. “Me being at Louis Vuitton is directly attributable to work Nigo’s done in the past,” Abloh said. “A collab project with him—it puts his work in the right context.”

The French luxury goods house famously partnered with Supreme in 2017, when Kim Jones was still LV’s menswear designer, but this hookup is different. There are no logos for Nigo’s brand, Human Made, on these clothes and accessories. In fact, there’s not much streetwear in the collection at all. “Let’s not do the expected,” is how Abloh characterized the interaction between himself and his mentor and friend.

That rings true with a statement Abloh made in an interview Dazed published shortly after the Louis Vuitton and Nigo project was announced. “I would definitely say it’s gonna die, you know? Like, its time will be up,” was how Abloh summed up streetwear’s fate at the time. As offhand as the comment was (see below), it stirred up quite a lot of internet talk in the industry and beyond. Three months later, Abloh has some new thoughts on the topic. He shared them, along with photos of his collaboration with Nigo, exclusively with Vogue.

Tell me about your friendship with Nigo.

He’s among the first real mentors I had in fashion. Since my trajectory was different, had I been a quote, unquote traditional designer, I might’ve gone to New York and apprenticed under Donna Karan. But since streetwear is a new genre of fashion design, those earliest mentors, the Yves Saint Laurent or Balenciaga of streetwear, it’s Nigo, it’s James Jebbia, who founded Supreme. They took what was organically happening within culture—skate and street brands—and they made hard-core brands from that.

Nigo, I was fortunate over 15 years ago to have met him in Japan. He took us under his wing and showed us the ropes of how he was building the brand A Bathing Ape at the time.

What was the process of working with him like?

We met in his studio [in Tokyo]. He has a completely vertical fashion brand with Human Made. In one building, he designs, does the photo shoot, does the manufacturing. I was impressed by that. We had subsequent meetings in my studio in Paris. They were really hands-on. Our strongpoint is the art direction of the concept. What people might be most surprised by is that for two guys known for streetwear history and ability, the collection is completely the opposite. That was our starting point: Let’s not do the expected. Let’s not put streetwear in a box. That’s the epiphany within the collaboration.

You’re doing a lot of tailoring together.

Yeah. If you were to say our names and that we’re doing something at Louis Vuitton, you would almost be able to predict it. But to me fashion with a capital F, it’s supposed to take you on a journey, to lead. Last fall I did an interview where a quote was taken out of context; my sentiment was that streetwear will die.

Virgil Abloh says streetwear is dead. It was the quote heard around the fashion world…

I’m such a novice; I don’t realize that things can even go that far. I’m a little bit naive in that way. It was literally me in my kitchen just riffing on what I’d been thinking. I didn’t say it to be polarizing. I think that in the context of this conversation with Nigo—if you speak to anyone that’s been in streetwear for the last 15 years, it’s always had this sort of nine lives, dying and coming back, and dying and coming back. There’s so many first-generation streetwear brands, stores, and retailers. The market wasn’t as vibrant as it is now, so they went out of business and people don’t remember those. Nigo has had projects before; he’s had many a brand, many identities within streetwear. Partially what I meant that “it will die” is that new things like tailoring from guys like Nigo and me will be born from the regeneration of it.

Back to the collaboration. You’ve put the LV Damier check to good use. It’s not something you’ve touched on yet, right?

A hundred percent. I thought this was a perfect project to do things like that. The mood of the collection started off with our appreciation for the U.K. dandy and the mod era, Savile Row tailoring. That gave us the silhouette; but when it came to adding our own texture within the silhouette, that was very much using the codes of the house.

When I think of Japan, I think of denim. You’ve done some amazing things with the material here.

What the Japanese are known for is great archiving and reinterpretations of Americana. Nigo has one of the most formidable collections; he has some of the very early Lee and Levi’s pieces that were ever found. His personal style, he’s a true connoisseur. He buys his suits on Savile Row. He goes for the experience, the custom bespoke nature of it. Also, his personal collection of denim! When it was a matter of developing these pieces, I thought that was the most authentic [thing], using him as a muse.

So, his influence is in the bags?

He had this brand called Ice cream with this drippy signature. I thought, What if we made that playfulness a little more serious and merged it with the Louis Vuitton signature?

And I see you’ve done a hooded bomber with Mount Fuji on the back.

We would do those pieces in our sleep. But we didn’t want the collection to be 100% that. My program at Louis Vuitton, the overarching vision is father to son. So, having a portion of more mature pieces with youthful pieces.

Let’s talk about the LV² label. Is it only applicable to you and Nigo, or is it a new logo for you plus somebody else going forward?

It’s something for Nigo and me specifically. It’s like a new rap group. Nigo came up with the name of LV². We were from outside having an opinion and just styling it. Now we’re inside designing it and styling it.

What’s the most important thing you’ve learned from Nigo?

It’s a sense of detail, a Japanese precision. But also generosity. He’s extremely heartfelt. I’m American and I work a lot in Europe. In Paris fashion can be cutthroat. It can have this manic feeling. In America it’s very workhorse. Working with him and having him in the studio, seeing his disposition and how he was thinking of the challenge of making tailoring, of how to refine all these ideas, he did it in a very respectful, calm, polite, but very precise way.

So is it really just a one-off?

Yeah, but as we’ve finally finished, there’s already been talks that this could be an ongoing logic. I think both sides are open to it, so I wouldn’t rule out that other things could come. I can say the future will involve a way of activating this collection, when it comes time to release, that will be more immersive than just simply putting it out into stores. We both have a passion for eventizing these moments. It’s not just the clothes, it’s the context.

Source: Vogue

FASHIONADO

Fendi Fall 2020 Menswear

Shortly after his participation at the LVMH Prize event last year, the shortlisted designer Kunihiko Morinaga of Anrealage was approached by Silvia Fendi. Would, she asked, he consider being part of her next menswear show? Morinaga said yes, of course, and backstage this morning he could be found watching the final lineup. Fendi, he noted, is a seriously big operation.

When his looks came out the planned Anrealage coup de théâtre did not quite come off. Those of us who attend his women’s shows in Paris could anticipate what to expect, but for the rest of the audience the transformation of his four looks from white slate to logo’d and patterned when placed under UV light was too subtle to startle.

However, that isn’t to say they didn’t make a fitting closing gesture at a show whose very interesting collection felt like it was about putting what is conventionally on the inside on the outside, and about modularity, and about technology, and about the place of classicism in an iconoclastic age—this collection was about a lot. It also looked good.

Backstage, Fendi said her reach-out to Morinaga had come out of the thinking that led to her solar women’s show shortly before that LVMH event last September and because her early thought of this menswear collection had included the notion of “transforming garments.” Away from Anrealage’s photochromatic transformation, Fendi’s shape-shifting attire including three-panel coats in fur or different tones of flannel that could be unzipped according to whether you planned to wear an overcoat, a jacket, or a bolero. There were also pants (from the front) and skirt (from the back) hybrids, which moved easily and looked attractive. There was another dialectic in the patterned jackets, coats, and hats: Some were in patched shearling that looked like cashmere, others in tufted cashmere that looked like shearling. “I want to give everybody the choice,” said Fendi.

She said her fundamental agenda was “to work on the essentials of the classic wardrobe of a man of tomorrow,” and one especially clever, modernizing twist on the classic was bringing the contours of linings and inside pockets to, a whole panoply of coats, vests and jackets. For good measure, Fendi added several credit card pockets and an AirPods compartment, and revived the historical cigar pocket. On contrast tailored jackets, leather jackets, and even shaved shearling, these outlines were both attractive and functional.

Another almost Surrealist but simultaneously functional play on interior and surface was the presentation of bags that appeared to be pieces of Fendi yellow packaging, rather than actual Fendi products. There was an oversize Fendi shopper in leather, and multiple Fendi boxes that were more like tiny trunks. Opening a box to reveal an item designed to be nearly identical to its packaging would surely be the ultimate Barthesian feedback loop.

The packaging riff extended to the garments via yellow taping stamped with Fendi Roma that defined the seams of certain outerwear pieces, and knit bags which had a satisfyingly hand-wrought roughness to them but that also resembled shoe and garment holders. For footwear, Fendi proposed a luxurified version of a mid-calf gumboot, also seen at Dolce, Ferragamo, and Prada. This was a collection rich in obvious luxury, in that the fabrication and construction was both extremely elevated and expertly done. It was also rich in ideas and ambition—a much more subtle but potent ingredient for luxury—and there were in those inside-out pieces quite probably a few of the future classics Fendi said she aspired to.

Source: Vogue

FASHIONADO

Dior SS20 Is Exquisitely Clean Tailoring and Collaborative RIMOWA Cases

Dior‘s impressive ascension under Kim Jones’s direction continues with the luxury house’s Spring/Summer 2020 collection. Rife with collaborations that notably include artist Daniel Arsham and RIMOWA, the menswear offering is stunningly clean, blending streetwear-friendly branding with mature tailored garments.

Like the Hajime Sorayama-centric Pre-Fall 2019 offering, this collection emphasizes clean lines and a timeless color palette to emphasize the covetable accessories, Matthew M. Williams-designed hardware and Arsham-inspired wares. The latter comes by way of unfettered trench coats and pale slacks, a nod to the artist’s personal uniform, while Arsham’s Future Relic series inspires the collection’s desaturated, earthy palette and a faux-cracked T-shirt.

Elongated belts, boxy work shirts and Oblique logo undershirts crop up in the collection, bolstering the louche suiting with youthful appeal. Elsewhere, safari caps and wide scarves shield the wearer from the sun, while skin-tight knitwear and sheer short-sleeved shirts lend primary color pops to the proceedings. Illustrative floral separates, buttery leather jackets and draping scarf-like attachments reinforce the sumptuousness attitude that Dior trades on.

Luxe textiles inform the offering’s crocodile leather jumpsuits and flowing silk shirts, while double-breasted jackets and carrot-cut trousers grant the range an effortlessly sophisticated attitude. Like the relaxed suiting, a faded newspaper print calls to the brand’s heritage, finding its way onto shirts, socks, B23 sneakers and a series of collaborative RIMOWA bags, the first union between the luggage label and Dior. To further distinguish the cases, each boasts a bespoking anodizing process that sees vibrant pigments blended directly in the aluminum shell; this embeds unique, vibrant colors into each item, permanently.

The fellow LVMH-controlled brand contributes a variety of thematic shoulderbags, clutches and full-sized luggage, a natural marriage of each labels’ sleek aesthetics. Yoon‘s head-turning jewelry continues to evolve each season, with chunky “DIOR” rings, necklaces and earrings all offered in a wide array of colors and makeups. Glossy eyewear, wallets and backpacks round out the expansive accessories offering, along with an Arsham-approved deconstructed cap, several new iterations of Dior’s Saddle bag and a wide array of running shoes and boots.

Source: HYPEBEAST

FASHIONADO