Todd Snyder FALL 2019 Menswear

Sometime in 2017 Todd Snyder gave up big seasonal inspirations and started mining his own personal history. The strategy has worked swimmingly, leading Snyder to one of his best collections ever for Fall 2019. Boiled down, the lineup was a ’90s-does-’70s rendition of Midwestern Americana, with lemon and sky striped grungy sweaters, wood-paneling-color grandpa cardigans, rock star shearlings, Western shirts in dusty azure and pale rose, and an Iowa State sweatshirt (his alma mater).

Snyder’s own life story is so richly intertwined with that of America’s sportswear obsessions; since he started by producing smart menswear at Polo Ralph Lauren and then The Gap many years ago, each piece here felt like a walk down memory lane. Only rather than sepia-toned, this bit of nostalgia was in Technicolor: On the runway it was a rainbow of fluorescent lights to evoke a suburban basement, in the clothes it was a rich palette of jewel box colors.

In addition to these clever twists on menswear staples, Snyder also offered some more challenging ideas. Will dudes come around on superwide-wale corduroy trousers or an amazing technicolor puffer? On the runway, the collection was optimized for Insta-appeal. That’s a pro for the lethally suave gents that dotted Snyder’s front row, snapping away on their phones like dandy paparazzi. But for the consumer not familiar with the fact that underneath that street style coat is a pair of plaid trousers that evokes an Iowan fall made with tender love and care? Well, maybe they’ll never know. The high gloss of a fashion show has a purpose, but Snyder could benefit from being a little scruffier, a little more soulful around the edges.

Source: VOGUE RUNWAY

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Alyx Spring 2020 Men's and Women's Collection

Matthew Williams of 1017 Alyx 9SM (his brand’s full name) didn’t seem to attach much meaning to his venue—a stunning, modernized bank building—yet two words projected loud and clear: big and business. This is what Alyx is fast becoming and what the combined men’s and women’s collections encapsulated with their assertive silhouettes and high-fashion positioning.

As the penultimate show of a strong week, Alyx was something to behold, arousing the glory days of Thierry Mugler in the 1980s while attracting the next-generation crowd that has brought incontrovertible energy back to Paris. For now, at least, Williams is committing to a more formal form of urban than his peers. For him, tailoring is not just an outward statement, but an inward reflection of mastery. “Tailoring is a really difficult thing to do as a young brand,” he said. “Some of the construction we’re attempting to do is trying to find our own language. I think it’s a nice challenge to define what that is for us.”

Arguably, his challenge is how to achieve that difference without appearing over-designed. From past visits with him, before he switched to a show format, he revealed his process as methodical, almost obsessional for the way he will privilege one detail over another. Chances are, he vetoed at least a dozen chains before landing on the one that repeats as a parabolic flourish on several of these looks. Other details—elongating panels, zippered knees, hammered hardware, sculpted heels—were fine-tuned in order to be fully integrated, not gratuitous. Elsewhere, outdoorsy pieces that harked back to earlier collections blended in while the draped dresses towards the end remained slightly unresolved.

But that’s just surface stuff; anyone who read the accompanying notes would have learned about the metal hardware sourced from a sustainable factory, the near-waterless leather-dyeing process, the three-dimensional printed seams and myriad more examples of innovation adding functional and psychological value to the clothes. Or, as stated in this succinct yet thorough document, “We engage with systems, scales, and soul.”

Williams, for his part, also suggested the designs gain dimension from those wearing them. “Our casting is a real mixture of models and friends and family—those people’s energy really brings out the clothes.” See Model 54, aka his wife Jennifer, who wore a croc-embossed jacket (the treatment of the season) and a corresponding translucent skirt. Enough of the guests knew her that cheers echoed through the space as though she were an international celebrity. It was a telling moment. Alyx, now acting all grown up, remains as independent and in-the-know as always.

Source: VOGUE RUNWAY

FASHIONADO

Obra Makes Socially Conscious Sneakers (and They're Running-Shoe Comfy, Too)

Sure, the staple Canvas Low from Obra, a new sneaker line from two industry vets, is a handsome shoe. Custom cream-colored foxing—the rubber strip joining the upper and midsole—makes it stand out. So does the big blue pull-on strap on the back. But the real juice is inside, founders Arnaud Delecolle and Dave Cory explain.

With Obra’s signature shoe, they had one goal: “Improve on the fit and wearability of a vulcanized product, which are historically appealing but not the most comfortable when you wear them all the time,” Delecolle explains over the phone. “Your knees get tired after a while, it's not the best.”

The fix? A drop-in, tech-y liner—“essentially the equivalent to a running shoe's midsole,” he says, “but in the form of a footbed. It’s a dual-density, thermo-formed EVA insole lined with high-tech microfiber.” And it works. “I've been wearing my test shoes like eight months straight, day in and day out,” Delecolle says. “I've actually used the insoles in my running shoes to test them out. So we've accomplished a product that looks traditional, in a sense, and utilitarian, but that's sort of tech on the inside.” As Cory puts it, “It's thick and cushy under your foot.”

In a never-more-saturated sneaker market—and one in which even the humble canvas vulcanized shoe is getting regular fashion upgrades—innovation is hard to come by. But the Obra fellas were well-positioned to find it. Delecolle founded Lower East Side streetwear emporium Alife back in 1999, and had moved onto other projects. Cory had been at Converse, helping shepherd that brand’s One Star back to the top of the sneaker heap. Delecolle was missing the sneaker world, and wanted to find a way to update his old business model with an emphasis on ethical, sustainable manufacturing and a community focus. Cory was feeling hemmed in at Converse, making a lifestyle product for a performance company. So they linked up, and Obra—Portuguese for construction, but also for a work of art—was born.

Source: GQ

FASHIONADO

Gucci Drops GG Pattern-Emblazoned Suit & Patch Cap Set

Gucci has returned with a classic spin on its tan lacquered logo pattern, offering up a blazer and jogger suiting combination alongside a beige, patch-emblazoned cap. Offered up in a cotton-blend canvas, the newly released blazer features a notched lapel collar, tonal button closure at the front, and patch pockets at the chest and waist. The piece is finished off with three patch pockets on the interior, as well as a tonal beige satin lining. The trousers offer a mid-rise, four-pocket construction, and styling, finished off with a drawstring waist and zip-fly. The patch cap utilizes the same exterior fabric, with a leather logo patch in brown featuring a logo stamp in gold-tone on the front, finished off with a velcro fastening system, gold-tone hardware, and twill lining.

If you’re interested in picking up the set or individual piece, they are available at SSENSE’s web store between $430 USD and $2900 USD.

Source: HYPEBEAST

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Ka Wa Key Spring/Summer 2020 Collection

KA WA KEY presented SS20 collection titled "What happens in grandpa's closet stays in grandpa's closet" at the NYMD during NYFW: Men's. The collection is inspired and is interpretation of old sailor wear and clothes our grand parents would have worn when they were young.

The collection is a story of "my" grandpa who sailed the seas and experienced the world with all of his senses. This is his secrets and his future, past and present.  This is grandpa's closet.

For this romantic and artisanal collection, KA WA KEY used their signature treatments: devore for distressed sheer effect, original dreamy watercolor handprinted prints and knitted fabrics. Collection is defined by sheer, floaty and layered constructions and pastel colors.

"Wind blowing in my face, sun rays warming up my body. I hear the call of youth. I can taste it.  I am floating, the waves take me away, back to my memories."

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Potential Prices for All Jean Paul Gaultier x Supreme Items Surfaces

After a much-hyped product and lookbook reveal, potential prices for the Jean Paul Gaultier x Supreme collection has now surfaced. The collaborative offering will range from $58 USD up to $488 USD, according to Instagram handle @Supreme_Leaks_News. Standout products like the Vans sneakers will run you about $118 USD while other coveted items like the plaid coat and leather vest should run about $488 USD and $398 USD, respectively.

Pricing for the collab has been a hot topic since the release as Supreme fans have been readying their wallets closer to the drop date. It’s still up in the air, however, if this is Supreme’s most-hyped collaboration of the year so far.

Source: HYPEBEAST

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Craig Green Drops Summer-Ready Reversible Parka

Craig Green continues to release products from his SS19 collection, this time dropping a reversible parka. Made from cotton twill and rubber, the color-blocked pattern has a navy front and a beige reverse, with Green’s signature hole pattern on the lower pocket.

A loose-fit coat, it’s ideal for rainy days in summer, with the rubberized finish providing protection from the elements. It’s been one of a few drops from Green, who earlier released more psychedelic parkas in colors that mimicked thermal imaging. The Craig Green reversible cotton twill and rubber parka is available now from Matchesfashion.com for £1,485 (approx. $1,944 USD).

Source: HYPEBEAST

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