The designers showing in London this season are certainly not averse to theatrical gestures. But where many labels seem to be immersing themselves in demi-couture proposals—some with more success than others—Stefan Cooke and Jake Burt took their theatricality to the shop floor. Mining inspiration from visits to costume archives, they applied subtle hints of stage magic to a viable and well-made men’s wardrobe for the perhaps mildly theatrically inclined.

“We actually don’t go to the theater,” Burt was quick to admit backstage, but for technique nerds like him and Cooke, the tricks of West End costume departments were a sugar rush to the head. “It’s like a football field for all these clothes that have just been edited for different things over and over again. You find all these moments in them,” he said.

Full Review of collection: Vogue | Anders Christian Madsen

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